I don't have a pic of the wiring but I'll see if i can explain it. Mine is slightly different because i am running a DSP between the head unit and amp, but if you are just upgrading the amp and speakers, this is all you need.
From the head unit i have RCA cables (2) going to my 6 channel...
OEM head unit will be fine and you can get wire harness to plug into the stock wiring. You really need to replace the amp at a minimum. PAC audio makes a harness that will plug into your existing harness that plugs into your OEM amp. just plug that in and run the wires to the new amp/amps...
Most likely will be coming out of the mountains and it'd be a real shame to have to throw the spare on and have it disintegrate
I'm thinking the next tire purchase will be 5 tires, keep the OEM spare rim and cover it.
I've done a few headlight conversions using the retrofit source parts and the morimoto projectors. I have a 2011 with OEM halogens so with the HID conversion you need the ballasts and wire harness and for the most part they worked great, until they didn't. I've had ballast and wire harness and...
How long do you guys keep your spare? I have a 2011 and as far as i know the spare is original so its 13+ years old and has spent the last few years in the bed. I have aftermarket wheels and tires so the spare is just a "get me home" tire but I'm wondering if i should chance it on a 13 year...
Thanks man. I'll say that i have seen personally seen and touched all the lights except Evil and BPD (never heard of BPD) and they are all very high quality. What makes mine different/better is mine are plug and play with the exception of the BD lights, but every light will require running the...
You should be able to just push the cap down, remove the circlip and pull the cap out. Then just chuck it in a vise with some soft jaws and finish tapping. maybe find a used lathe chuck to clamp it in if you need more force and don't want to put some flat spots on the cap.
Saw this in one of the fb groups. I know this guy and he’s a super smart engineer and has done quite a bit of work in the mountain bike industry. I have no doubt he’s got quality products for the Gen 3
https://indexsuspension.com/
If you can cycle the shock, then there is air in the main chamber. I assume you cycled the IFP until no bubbles came up in the main chamber? This is my sequence and has worked pretty well. Chances are the IFP is bottomed and not purging all the air from the main chamber.
1. install the IFP...
I'm not quite sure what you mean. Front shims are not the same as rear shims. Valve body my be the same but that would be very hard to measure and verify. I'd bet the valve is the same on all Gen 1 shocks, just the shim thickness, diameter and quantity vary between the 4 different part #s.
The difference between Gen 1 and Gen 2 shocks is huge. Aluminum body, more side stacks and bigger internals. Fox is not going to do anything to "upgrade" the gen 1 shocks so its up to the aftermarket to take the technology improvements and apply them to the Gen 1 shocks. But, unless you do...
I saw this video the other day. I’m curious as to what they do for their “proprietary” valving. I wonder if they add more bleed holes and valves to the bypass tube I’ve run a few different “shim tunes” and honestly couldn’t feel any difference. I think modifying the bypass is where you’ll...
Have you looked at shock seals for the seal kits? Thats where i get my seals and i use Kartek for the valves, but i use the RPG valves so i don't have to drill and tap the shock. If you don't use the schrader valves you need a needle and then you fill it like a basketball. Problem with that...
I don't know what the IFP bottoming sounds like but that could be the culprit. If you bottomed the IFP out when you installed the main shaft, that could be the cause. After i cycle the IFP a few times to bleed the air, i pull it up a few inches, then install the shaft and top cap. If you...
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