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You can put a screw in the shaft or use zip ties on the flap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use anthracite plasti dip because it lasts, it matches the wheel arches and when I smash them on a rock I bring them home, hammer flat and respray. That has happened twice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shaft that opens/closes recirculating door broke and fell into fan. If I had to wager, it would be on that. It’s happened to dozens on this forum. I’m pulling my blower motor out tomorrow to fish out the broken piece and then use zip ties to wire the door closed. Not worth fixing for the hassle...

Those lines are going to keep breaking and cracking. If you plan to keep them, upgrade to silicone.

Do you know what that vaccum line went to? Just curious.

You can have good hoses, good solenoid, good check valve, and even maintain a vacuum at idle, but if one of your IWE diaphrams has a small leak, it will bleed off enough vacuum under a load to start grinding. This just happened to me. Do a vacuum test on each IWE. Just disconnect the line, put...

I just towed a 6500 lb boat and trailer from Las Vegas to Lake Powell in triple-digit temps with a stock radiator. You're going to be fine.

Yeah, we took an RV trip through the Rockies. Holy hell! Haha. It was an old RV and an OLD 454. Poor thing. Climbing was terrible, but descending, oh man! What a rush.

Drilling and tapping the drain plug is a cool idea.

Yeah, we head up to DC a lot, and that is quite a climb.

@letsgetthisdone what transmission cooler are you running? My boat and trailer are about 6,500 lbs. Just went to Lake Powell and back over Labor Day Weekend, and it did well. Upgrading the transmission cooler has really helped overall trans and coolant temps. Honestly, I think just changing the...

I’ll be watching this thread. How much does your trailer weigh fully loaded?

You've definitely done all the right upgrades!

You're probably running 93 in NC though right? That does help a little with MPGs. We have the worst gas here. Might be a point higher than AK, but it's ACN 91, which is not the same as regular 91. Probably more like the 90 in AK. Anyway, sure wish we could get 93 out here!

That's actually not bad at all for cost. You're getting MPGs that I've never seen in my truck, that's for sure. I don't even understand how 18+ is even possible! I never saw that without the blower. I have done 3 road trips recently, logging over 3000 miles, and my average has been 12.5. In town...

Exactly. It has to to with the transmission programming against various loads, shift points and firmness, etc. Now if you're running wicked amounts of boost then you're going to need more pressure on the belt, but most of the issues for your average customer seem to be resolved with a better tune.

Main issue with the tensioners (and belts) breaking on Roush blowers is the Roush tunes suck! Once you have a good tune in there, those issues are usually resolved.

Here in Vegas, we only have 91, and the JDM tune I'm running does great with 91. Truck still makes plenty of power for sure. I've run 95 in it, and it feels stronger because it doesn't have to pull so much timing when it gets hot. I have a feeling you would be happy running a 90 Octane tune, and...

I did that exactly. I don't know about ingenious—I'm just REALLY cheap! It came with the injectors, fuel rails, idler pulley bracket, etc. It was off of one of the Indmar Raptor 575 engines. The wiring harnesses, CAI, throttle body, intercooler, etc. were purchased new from various sources.

I cobbled together a Roush system built around a take-off supercharger from a 1 season ski boat. Some of the parts were purchased new from Roush, except for the blower, injectors, fuel rails, some pulleys, etc. which were just lightly used. Bought quite a few new parts I needed on eBay cheap...

It’s called maintenance. NBD. A few hundred vs tens of thousands.

84k doesn’t even register as high mileage!

GTFOH!!! Ball joints, knuckles, tie rods, Cvs...or a whole new truck? Which is more expensive?!

Yes, blue loctite is definitely the plan for it. The grinding under load was coming from the good side when in 2WD. Because of the loose axle, I can barely get engagement at all on the bad side anyway, even under low vac situations. When I kill vac at the solenoid to the hubs, I get that...

Yep, capping the outlet on the solenoid kills all vacuum to the hubs, so it's a done deal at that point. I plan to do the same, and remove the old lines as well because they're unnecessary and I really hate seeing seeing them at this point!