DIY Maintenance Thread

[shthpnz]

I have the Fumoto installed on my 2010 Raptor. Works perfect.

 

[MTF]

I've seen quite a few of you guys using the Fumoto plug.

I work for a Crane and heavy equipment rental company, and I can tell you this is not a good solution.
We had several seized engines because they went through something that hit the lever just the right way and out comes the oil.

You can fight me all you want, all I'll say is "be careful out there in the weeds and fields."

 

[Evo Raptor]

Just did my first oil change and installed the fumoto valve. Ived used it for over a decade on several cars. Never an issue. Soo much easier and faster. Attach hose and goes right into recycle jug. That lever isn't as easy to flip over as you think. Also there's an indent that the lever snaps into. It has to be lifted and turned in order to release. Also the lever is high up almost against the pan. You would have to bury the front sway 4-6 inches deep before you would hit the pan. They also now have a clip that locks it in the closed position. At only a couple bucks more I installed it as well..

 

[NickPic83]

Just did my first oil change and installed the fumoto valve. Ived used it for over a decade on several cars. Never an issue. Soo much easier and faster. Attach hose and goes right into recycle jug. That lever isn't as easy to flip over as you think. Also there's an indent that the lever snaps into. It has to be lifted and turned in order to release. Also the lever is high up almost against the pan. You would have to bury the front sway 4-6 inches deep before you would hit the pan. They also now have a clip that locks it in the closed position. At only a couple bucks more I installed it as well..

Any pics of it installed? My only worry is that it could get snapped off while off-roading. I bought a valve for my daily but never installed it because the car is lowered and sits real low and I worried it could get ripped off


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[Evo Raptor]

You can get it without the white nipple for more clearance. Without the nipple you would have to almost hit the pan. I don't plan on ever bottoming out to the skid..

 

[NickPic83]

Thanks for the pic . I don't plan on bottoming out either but it's probably still going to happen lol


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[Yukon Joe]

Agree.... no one ever plans on doing it. Lol...

Would make it easier to change oil with the skid pans I have.

Yukon Joe
www.RUNRAPTORRUN.com

 

[Humvee21]

My truck is coming up on its 6th oil change in 37k miles (I did my first at 1k miles). I have replaced 2 CPV (canister purge valves) and 2 air filters since new. Is there any other maintenance items that I need to do for my truck? I have followed the owner's manual service items religiously... just wondering if there are any other parts I should inspect, replace, or lubricate? I plan on rebuilding the shocks when I do my 7th oil change.

Forgot to mention that I already had the transmission flushed at 29k...

 

[Humvee21]

Canister Purge Valve replacement

You may need to replace your Canister Purge Valve (CPV if you are experiencing these issues:
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f183/tsb-11-1-5-canister-purge-valve-1347/

ISSUE:
Some 2009-2010 F-150, 2009-2011 Expedition, Navigator, E-Series, Escape Hybrid, Mariner Hybrid, 2010-2011 Fusion Hybrid, Milan Hybrid, 2011 MKZ Hybrid and F-Super Duty 250/350 equipped with a 6.2L enigne and built on or before 11/1/2010, may exhibit a running rough concern, hard start after refueling, audible clicking noise under the hood and/or diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0316, P144A, P1450, P017X, P044X, P045X.


This is a tsb (technical service bulletin, not to be confused with a recall!) to replace the Canister Purge Valve thats located on the left hand side of the intake manifold. Its part of the EVAP system. Mines been clicking loudly non stop at random times for a month or so. I will replace it when I get a chance, so figured I would give people a heads up.

(thanks pirate air)

To replace you need:
1) Motorcraft CX-2369 - this is OEM replacement part
2) 8mm socket wrench (someone please confirm this as it's been a while since I replaced mine)

Step-by-step:
1) Locate the CPV. See attached photos.
2) Disconnect the wireharness. I think it's just a tab you press and pull the harness off.
3) Unbolt the 2x 8mm bolts from the CPV.
4) Pull the CPV straight out (not up or down).
5) Replace with new CPV in the same orientation and reverse the removal process for installation.

 

[Humvee21]

I started doing some more research on different oil filters and found some new (to me) information. I've added it to the DIY Oil and Filter change post, but I'll post it here as well. http://hillerford.com/resource_library/2010/motorcraftcompare.pdf

It doesn't have the Ford Racing filter, but there are a lot of comparisons of the Ford Racing filter vs the standard Motorcraft FL-820S online that is easy to find. FWIW, I have decided to return to the Motorcraft filter due to the location of the bypass valve. Also, I can't justify the Ford Racing filter at about 5-7 times the cost of the Motorcraft.