Why is Ford so damn stupid! Oil Pan/Repairs Rant

[Drgonzo3000]

Truck is in the shop again, for the plastic oil pan leak. This will be pan fix #8. So again they are refusing to swap it out to the newer metal pan to fix the issue. I asked if I supplied the pan and pickup if they would install it, sure to a price of $900.

So if they fix it again the wrong way which will just cause it to leak again it's covered under warranty, but if I want the correct fix doen they won't cover the labor costs and I'm stuck with a $900 bill.

It's also in the shop cause the front timing cover is also got a small leak, course gasket is on backorder.

Front drivers hub is making noise. IWE valve has already been replaced. I found that the CV axle going into the hub is moving. So the chatter is from the axle moving and hitting the IWE splines. I explain all this to them and they can't find the problem. Say the movement on the axle is normal. Umm no it's not normal you idiots! IWE is fixed to the hub, so if the axle moves the splines will make contact and chatter. Guess since it's not in a manual Ford tech don't know how to troubleshoot it.

 

[xrocket21]

Im with ya man. After the stock, then 2 replacement plastic pans leaked, I complained to the dealer, I complained to ford, and nobody cared.

Only way to fix it was to do it myself. Bought an RMB metal pan and pickup for $300, $50 for RTV, $200 for a digital torque wrench with angle, $60 for oil change supplies...

8-10 hours and $600 later I now have a truck that doesn't leak oil.

GEN 2 - Plastic Oil pan #3 leaking. 70k miles. New pan every other oil change. Help?

I am out of warranty (80k miles) They have been noisy pretty much since new. The warranty for cam phasers is prorated until 100,000 miles I believe.

www.fordraptorforum.com

 

[smurfslayer]

How in the world is it that you have had 8 oil pans?

twice is too many. If it’s leaking again at the pan one of 3 things is true
1) the previous replacement pan was defective; it broke, or was warped enough that the gasket seal wouldn’t work.
2) The workmanship on the previous pan replacement wasn’t acceptable to the task
3) your engine mating surface is damaged.

Find out what the problem was. I would be calling Ford C/S on the 2nd pan, not the first because stuff happens, so the original could end up leaking. They fix it and if that leaks, the above analysis seems to fit whether it’s the 2nd pan, the 5th pan, the 10th pan or anywhere in between.

> 1 replacement means one of the above. Find out what happened.
If it’s 2, the same tech doesn’t touch my truck, he doesn’t even look at it.

 

[FordTechOne]

Repeat oil pan leaks are a workmanship issue. Either they haven’t checked the upper oil pan sealing surface for flatness or they aren’t following the repair procedure. There is a special sealing procedure that was released after the cause of the repeat leaks was investigated and determined to be a surface preparation issue. There is even a video in the workshop manual showing how to properly prep the surfaces. Note that the composite lower oil pan must be replaced any time it is removed.

As far as the CV axle rotating while in 2WD, that is in fact normal. The drag from the transfer case clutch causes the front axle to rotate, which then turns the axles. If you are getting noise from a hub, that is the result of a damaged or partially engaged IWE. A simple vacuum leak at a connection or hose can cause that result. There is a pinpoint test specifically for noise from the front axle in 2WD, the dealer should be performing that to isolate the vacuum leak and/or faulty component.

 

[Drgonzo3000]

Metal pan will be coming that is for sure, but in the meantime Ford will continue to waste their money trying to fix their problem.

The 8 pans - 5 done through the original owner, they filed Lemon in Georgia and Ford bought the truck back. Ford then fixed the pan again (#6) and sent the truck to Auction. Truck was sold at auction prior to the new oil pan TSB coming out. I then got the truck from a local dealer and later found the pan leaking. Sent truck to my local dealer to perform the new TSB procedure. 10k miles later and it's leaking again so it back there now. Like mentioned earlier Ford will continue to waste their money fixing the oil pan before I spend my money to fix it myself putting the metal pan in at my shop.

The Axle issue in not a rotational issue. The axle bearing in the wheel bearing is worn out. When the truck is parked and not moving you can move the outer CV axle cup up/down. I checked the nut torque and it is good. VAcuum check also performed by me and IWE's are fine. I'm pretty sure the splines on the hub, axle and IWE are all worn out though due to the bearing being worn out.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

How in the world is it that you have had 8 oil pans?

twice is too many. If it’s leaking again at the pan one of 3 things is true
1) the previous replacement pan was defective; it broke, or was warped enough that the gasket seal wouldn’t work.
2) The workmanship on the previous pan replacement wasn’t acceptable to the task
3) your engine mating surface is damaged.

Find out what the problem was. I would be calling Ford C/S on the 2nd pan, not the first because stuff happens, so the original could end up leaking. They fix it and if that leaks, the above analysis seems to fit whether it’s the 2nd pan, the 5th pan, the 10th pan or anywhere in between.

> 1 replacement means one of the above. Find out what happened.
If it’s 2, the same tech doesn’t touch my truck, he doesn’t even look at it.

Sounds like OP needs a new motor, they might of damaged the mating surface at one time with a grinder or (hammer and chisel), could only imagine the quality of workmanship at some point. Once it's frubarbed, doing the proper procedure ain't gonna do squat, I bet they put extra silicone on everytime to fill in grooves in the block surface. Just an uneducated guess.

 

[Drgonzo3000]

Sounds like OP needs a new motor, they might of damaged the mating surface at one time with a grinder or (hammer and chisel), could only imagine the quality of workmanship at some point. Once it's frubarbed, doing the proper procedure ain't gonna do squat, I bet they put extra silicone on everytime to fill in grooves in the block surface. Just an uneducated guess.

Umm.... the plastic pans are a 2 piece pan, upper portion "block stiffener" is metal and is what mates to the block and is not removed or is what leaks. the Lower portion of the pan is what is plastic and leaks. they only replace the lower portion of the pan when they fix the leak, not the upper metal and lower plastic.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Umm.... the plastic pans are a 2 piece pan, upper portion "block stiffener" is metal and is what mates to the block and is not removed or is what leaks. the Lower portion of the pan is what is plastic and leaks. they only replace the lower portion of the pan when they fix the leak, not the upper metal and lower plastic.

That's right, I was thinking about the other member that changed his and it removes both pieces . So they probably fumbled on the upper portion at one time, maybe they can replace that this time as well?

 

[xrocket21]

Umm.... the plastic pans are a 2 piece pan, upper portion "block stiffener" is metal and is what mates to the block and is not removed or is what leaks. the Lower portion of the pan is what is plastic and leaks. they only replace the lower portion of the pan when they fix the leak, not the upper metal and lower plastic.

Eh, I disagree. It was very tough to tell when I replaced my pan because oil was everywehere with dirt stuck to the oil (a big mess), but I am suspicious it was the block stiffener that was leaking and all they were doing was replacing the plastic pan. Luckily the metal pan is one piece and does away with the block stiffener.

 

[Drgonzo3000]

I was meaning the seal between the plastic and metal pan is where the problem is. It may be the upper metal portion that is the problem, but Ford won't replace it. Manual states lower portion only.