Was Running Fine Yesterday…

[dspangler]

I believe none of the 18 R window stickers found had the pano roof/power tailgate package and none had the pro power 2k option. Could it be this is a all out performance model without all the fluff? i believe some had spray in bed liner option and bed covers but none had those luxury/techy options.

That sucks. Sorry about your misfortune. Seems like quality control on these Gen 3s is really, really bad.

With only 845 miles...WTF is going on with these Gen3 Raptors. Let us know what they say cause is.

Be aware of sampling bias. Infant mortality of parts makes failure rate higher immediately post production. Then it declines until parts start wearing out, when it rises again. Since all gen 3s on the road are recently made, you'd expect a higher failure rate than you would when a large portion of the fleet is older. You saw the same thing with the TRX, on top of the egregious errors ...

COVID builds… that is why it’s not smart to buy a vehicle during these times. Quality is awful across the board.

 

[AnamnesisV]

Had the same thing happen to me on my Gen 1 brake paddle was moving on it’s own all the lights on the dash were on & it wouldn’t start. Turns out one of my terminals was corroded.

 

[0302]

Thanks much for that input. Free raptor...most definitely true some places! I live in a small 2 traffic light town, where most people don't lock their doors when they leave the house and leave the keys in the ignition. Anyway, I'll for sure remove the key from now on.
I drive to work about 3 miles one way daily and may go a week doing nothing more than that. Wondering if battery may have been low to start and I just added to that? My wife has a 2019 F150 Limited that she has left her key in for a couple years now...so far no issue, but 2022 Raptor is maybe different in some way.
The guy at O'Reilly's say he has some "big" machine that charges and checks the batteries...said sometimes when he hooks up a battery the machine will indicate that the battery is "bad." Told me, my battery was so low, it had to be charged up enough for the machine to check. So, I don't know.
Would you suggest deferring a trip to the dealership for now? I can imagine going into the dealership, telling them what happened, and getting the . I did check the battery terminals...seemed tight and okay. Couldn't really determine anything with zone lighting as indicated Antho's post above. Thanks again for your and everyone's help.

 

[AnamnesisV]

yeah they’ll most likely tell you they found nothing wrong if it’s acting normal right now. Hopefully it’s all good now!

 

[RamseyF]

Then this morning went to start…break peddle started bumping back against me and all sorts of warning indicators…then started making some thumping sounds, like a base drum. Wouldn’t stop doing that until I disconnected the battery. Reconnected battery with same thumping sounds and dead dash. Bummer! Guess I’ll be calling a tow truck on Monday.View attachment 357430View attachment 357431View attachment 357432View attachment 357433

mine did the exact same thing last weekend. I have 5800 miles on it. the night before, when I shut it off something seemed strange. the lights didnt auto shut of like normal. it took way longer than normal. I am wondering if there could be an abnormal drain on the battery for you and I. when I went to start it in the morning. same exact thing. thumping, warnings, brake pedal, everything. I disconnected the negative terminal. hoping to reset the system. no go. I jumped it and its been fine since. I have an appointment for the recalls and oil change, and now that. so I hope its a simple battery issue

 

[0302]

I didn’t even think to jump it…nope…$200 for a new battery. So you’d say that your battery wasn’t “bad” just run down and charging has been good to go since? Seems more likely an abnormal drain, as you said, than batch of bad batteries…especially since my battery charged and tested “good.” I hope that you mention to your dealer this “other guy” who had the same thing…I’ll do the same. Thanks very much for taking the time to post what you did.

 

[RamseyF]

I didn’t even think to jump it…nope…$200 for a new battery. So you’d say that your battery wasn’t “bad” just run down and charging has been good to go since? Seems more likely an abnormal drain, as you said, than batch of bad batteries…especially since my battery charged and tested “good.” I hope that you mention to your dealer this “other guy” who had the same thing…I’ll do the same. Thanks very much for taking the time to post what you did.

sure will let them know. like I said when I shut it off the night before it seemed strange. I don't know how else to explain it. horn didn't beep when I locked it. and lights stayed longer than normal. also the chiming inside kept beeping as if I left the headlights on. I assumed thats what I did and left something on all night but and it drained the battery. since most Cars today auto shut everything off after a certain time and now you had the issue. I am now wondering what it could be but I will let them know for sure when I bring it in.

 

[2ndFord]

10.6 V So, guess I’m headed to the store for a new battery…would be GREAT if that fixes this. Thanks again FordTechOne!

Once again, Kudos to FordTechOne!!!

 

[Keshka]

A couple of things come to mind. Poor battery connection...on either end of each cable! Perhaps during assembly something like the main ground point did not get tightened properly or has paint under it. The battery terminal lugs not properly torqued. Positive bus connection not tight. You get the idea. Several places to check. One clue, most marginal connections get quite warm under load.

Second thought. A three mile drive is not enough for the charging system to recover from starting the engine so after several "day" runs, the battery became depleted but is otherwise fine. The only way to know for sure on the original battery is to fully charge it then put an average load on it from a known source. Something like an old standard head light bulb. Example: Suppose Ford says that it is an 80 amp hour battery. Putting a load of 8 amps on it...it should go for ten hours. Greater short term loads such as a shop batter load tester may put as much as 100 amp load on the tested batter. Given the above example, now at 100 amps your 80 amp hour battery should last 48 minutes, however at high loads like that the battery will expire much sooner (but recover somewhat if allowed to rest).

 

[Jake226]

Same exact thing happened to me in my Gen 3 today trying to get home from the office. Same faults that you have shown in your pics OP. I disconnected the battery let it rest and same result when I hooked it back up. Finally thought to jump it and it started back up and I drove it home in “low power mode”. Message was on the center stack temporarily and only showed the backup camera when in reverse. Everything else was off. Scheduling a trip to the dealership in the morning to figure out the phantom drain…and hopefully have Ford replace the battery.