Using the relays that come with the Rigid Lights

[FLA-SVT]

Is it a bad idea to use the relays that come with the rigid light wiring harness? I just connected the hot lead and the Blue wire to the upfitter pass thru and left the one wire (black I beleive) disconnected.

I know we already have relays in our vehicles for upfitters, but was not sure if I was going to lose voltage by running two relays.

How did you guys do it? did you remove the relay portion of the wiring harness?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Is it a bad idea to use the relays that come with the rigid light wiring harness? I just connected the hot lead and the Blue wire to the upfitter pass thru and left the one wire (black I beleive) disconnected.

I know we already have relays in our vehicles for upfitters, but was not sure if I was going to lose voltage by running two relays.

How did you guys do it? did you remove the relay portion of the wiring harness?

shouldnt that wire go to ground? i have not seen the light bar you have, but the 2 connections you made were power connections. you will need a ground to complete the circuit. no instructions?

 

[Badrap]

Relays? Must be something new. I used the red for spots and blue for flood.
Black was ground.

 

[FLA-SVT]

Harness came with relays and their switch. Since we get powe from the upfitter I had to by pass their switch. I ran the hot to the relay and the hot wire from the switch, with the neutral to the one upfitter wire. Their switch is tied into their relay. I left off one wire from the harness that went to the unused Rigid switch and everything works fine. This is all I got from rigid. (see Attached)

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Harness came with relays and their switch. Since we get powe from the upfitter I had to by pass their switch. I ran the hot to the relay and the hot wire from the switch, with the neutral to the one upfitter wire. Their switch is tied into their relay. I left off one wire from the harness that went to the unused Rigid switch and everything works fine. This is all I got from rigid. (see Attached)

most likely that other wire was probably ground for an illuminated switch.

 

[FLA-SVT]

You are Correct...It was the illumination lamp wire for their switch. I multi metered everything out and that is what it showed. But I was worried or wondered if there was any issue of using the Rigid harness including their relay since we already have relays in our upfitter. I don't think I am going to see much voltage drop by tying it into the upfitter wires, instead of running wire to the relay the hot right to the battery and just using the upfitter to replace their switch.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

You are Correct...It was the illumination lamp wire for their switch. I multi metered everything out and that is what it showed. But I was worried or wondered if there was any issue of using the Rigid harness including their relay since we already have relays in our upfitter. I don't think I am going to see much voltage drop by tying it into the upfitter wires, instead of running wire to the relay the hot right to the battery and just using the upfitter to replace their switch.

ok, the relay is for connecting power straight to the battery, because there is an inline fuse they were expecting you to connect to the battery. the other wire would be what we call a turn on wire. that wire provides power to activate the relay and that should be connected to your switch. there shouldnt be any voltage drop if you connected directly to those switches, but the wires might get hot. my guess is that those power and ground wires are pretty thick. that has to accomodate for the amount of current draw the lights have. your best bet would be to connect the way they want you to.

 

[FLA-SVT]

ok, the relay is for connecting power straight to the battery, because there is an inline fuse they were expecting you to connect to the battery. the other wire would be what we call a turn on wire. that wire provides power to activate the relay and that should be connected to your switch. there shouldnt be any voltage drop if you connected directly to those switches, but the wires might get hot. my guess is that those power and ground wires are pretty thick. that has to accomodate for the amount of current draw the lights have. your best bet would be to connect the way they want you to.

I think you are right...I am going to add a terminal block so I can run one wire from my battery to the block and then connect the other hot leads to the relays in the harnesses. Keeps it real clean and much safer. Been wanting to redo the wiring anyway. Thanks a bunch for talking me thru it. It helps!!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

no problem, anytime. thats what this forum is all about. helping each other

 

[justvettn]

Why don't you just get the Raptor specific wiring from Rigid for the up-fitter switch? Its cheap and no guessing or extra wires and stuff.
Save the wiring harness with fuse and relay for when you run out of up-fitter switches and still want to run more lights.