Turn Signal Hyper Flash Solutions: Re-Programming BCM vs. Resistors

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BMWBig6

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I’m considering replacing some of my exterior bulbs with LEDs, but I understand the lower resistance or load tricks Ford’s Body Control Module (BCM) into thinking a bulb is burned out, so LED turn signals will blink twice as fast (called “hyper flashing”). The usual solution seems to involve adding 6 Ohm 50W resistors to each tail lamp bulb (or 3 Ohm 50W resistor on each side) but some threads also mention having the dealership re-program the newer F-150 (2011+?) BCM to change the “turn lamp outage feature” or "fast flash" to <OFF> via IDS tool. This setting is available under: Module programming> programmable parameters> exterior lighting (Same place to activate day time running lights).

See SVE Bulletin Q-158R3 “2011MY and later LED Lighting with Body Control Module" (which is for F-250 but apparently works on F-150's and Raptors too).


Some threads claim this completely solved their hyper flash problem without the need for resistors but a couple people said the hyperflash came back in warm conditions (but then went away again during cold mornings or at night). So does this mean it's not a 100% effective solution? (Not the silver bullet we hoped for?)

What is everyone else's experience? Did this work for you? Or did you have to go back and install resistors after all to truly eliminate the problem?
 

akmedic77

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Had mine reprogrammed and still had a hyper flash issue in all conditions. I had only changed the front bulbs at that point, but I still had hyper flash.
 

akmedic77

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Well that's discouraging! Thanks for sharing your experience. :(

I'm hoping to have more of a chance to work on it when I'm home from work for a while. My brother is a Ford Tech, so I can bug him some. Might have to get LEDs all around and see if that works. I'm trying to stay away from adding resistors in-line, but I might just get the plugs for each end so I don't have to tap any of the wiring.
 

akmedic77

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Do you have a link to the plugs you had in mind?

Unfortunately not. I haven't really looked hard, either. Thought about getting both the male and female plugs for 3157 (I think that's the bulb) and creating pigtails with the resistor on it (that was my original meaning).

Edit: I'll get them looked up and post links.
 
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akmedic77

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They have our trucks listed as Fronts Requiring a 3157 and the rears requiring the 4057. Everything I have looked at says that they are both the same receptacle, but a slightly different wattage bulb. We are looking to change to LEDs, so does that matter? Not sure.

Here is the link for the base sockets: SuperBrightLEDS

Here is another link (don't know if I should trust this company or not... iJDMtoy.com

Found both from Amazon:
Female 3157

Male 3157


Short of cutting off the wires and changing the connector (which defeats the purpose) I can't think of anything else besides seeing if the CanBus bulbs will work. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Here's the whole pigtail, finished: eBay and you could put the resistor into that, instead of your factory harness.
 
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Mogo

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I’m considering replacing some of my exterior bulbs with LEDs, but I understand the lower resistance or load tricks Ford’s Body Control Module (BCM) into thinking a bulb is burned out, so LED turn signals will blink twice as fast (called “hyper flashing”). The usual solution seems to involve adding 6 Ohm 50W resistors to each tail lamp bulb (or 3 Ohm 50W resistor on each side) but some threads also mention having the dealership re-program the newer F-150 (2011+?) BCM to change the “turn lamp outage feature” or "fast flash" to <OFF> via IDS tool. This setting is available under: Module programming> programmable parameters> exterior lighting (Same place to activate day time running lights).

See SVE Bulletin Q-158R3 “2011MY and later LED Lighting with Body Control Module" (which is for F-250 but apparently works on F-150's and Raptors too).


Some threads claim this completely solved their hyper flash problem without the need for resistors but a couple people said the hyperflash came back in warm conditions (but then went away again during cold mornings or at night). So does this mean it's not a 100% effective solution? (Not the silver bullet we hoped for?)

What is everyone else's experience? Did this work for you? Or did you have to go back and install resistors after all to truly eliminate the problem?

I had the dealer perform the bulletin you linked. My experience was exactly as you mentioned, perfect operation during cold weather, but when the warmer weather returned, the driver's side signals started hyperflashing again. Passenger side signals flashed at normal rate regardless of ambient temperature.

Very strange.
 
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