Trade my problem plagued 2018 for a 2020?

[DrippinRaptor]

My 2018 Raptor (SuperCab, 802a) was a custom order. I paid MSRP of $61,900 at the time and traded in my 2012 Raptor for it. Unfortunately, it's been in the shop way too often, under warranty, and it's making me a bit uncomfortable.

Issues:

First - timing belt tensioner. It was gone nearly a month while this issue was resolved. Happened around 14,000 miles or so.

Second - charging system fault. Cable from the alternator to the fuse box worked itself loose on a trip from Texas to Arkansas. Bad timing.

Third - wrench icon when driving down the highway. Went into limp mode. Replaced throttle body, air speed sensor and turbo boost sensor. Happened around 22,000 miles.

Fourth - APIM went bad. Touchscreen stopped working, blue tooth stopped working, steering wheel radio controls stopped working. Took about 3 days to fix. Happened around 26,000 miles.

Fifth - happened this week. Check engine light. Crankcase pressure sensor had to be replaced. Happened at 34,500 miles.

My dealer has offered me $42k on trade and will let me order an allocation at the invoice price of $62,225 It would be another SuperCab 802A.

I'm slightly concerned that the 2021 models will have some new suspension or engine stuff, but with 34k on my 2018 I'm almost out of warranty and don't want to continue to have more issues.

So overall I'd be paying $325 more to move from a 2018 to a 2020 I suppose.

I do have Method Mesh wheels, Toyo 35" MTs and an ADD bumper/led bar I'd need to have the dealer transfer over, if I did trade in.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Tin Can Rap]

Trade value seems low to me, but it could be the area maybe? In PA/Ohio I got 60k trade in for my 2018 802a crew with less miles (14k on the truck). I could see the stealers, I mean dealers not wanting the super cabs; just like they always add a moon roof to 802a trucks. I am sure you booked it; what does it book at? Private sell?

 

[DrippinRaptor]

Trade value seems low to me, but it could be the area maybe? In PA/Ohio I got 60k trade in for my 2018 802a crew with less miles (14k on the truck). I could see the stealers, I mean dealers not wanting the super cabs; just like they always add a moon roof to 802a trucks. I am sure you booked it; what does it book at? Private sell?

KBB says dealer trade value of $42-45k.

 

[Tin Can Rap]

Maybe we are starting to see the market drop on these...

 

[smurfslayer]

We all whined, b!tched and moaned loudly at the 2017 era ADM and Ford’s solution was to crank out Raptors like they would be the last ones ever produced and it worked, prices came down. So of course, you’re not trading in a truly limited run vehicle, you’re trading in a factory hot rod truck.

You do seem to have a frustrating run of issues.

Issues:

First - timing belt tensioner. It was gone nearly a month while this issue was resolved. Happened around 14,000 miles or so.

Second - charging system fault. Cable from the alternator to the fuse box worked itself loose on a trip from Texas to Arkansas. Bad timing.

Third - wrench icon when driving down the highway. Went into limp mode. Replaced throttle body, air speed sensor and turbo boost sensor. Happened around 22,000 miles.

Fourth - APIM went bad. Touchscreen stopped working, blue tooth stopped working, steering wheel radio controls stopped working. Took about 3 days to fix. Happened around 26,000 miles.

Fifth - happened this week. Check engine light. Crankcase pressure sensor had to be replaced. Happened at 34,500 miles.

issues 2 is likely a fluke that could happen on any vehicle. a 2020 would be susceptible to issue 1, 3, 4 and 5 as the hard parts are essentially the same.

a new 2020 Rap would get you another Raptor Assault ticket, but what would the $$$ situation look like?

If you’re financing, you’d be taking on more debt for what is basically the same truck with more cowbell.

Alternatively, you could pick up a Ford ESP from Flood and hold the line on new truck investments until we know more about the next model.

of your repairs, issue 3 seems to me like a “let’s just swap out these parts and see if the problem goes away” repair. issue 1 is unlikely to occur again unless you’re cam phaser solenoids or the phasers themselves let go. The latter is pretty rare.

I’m not trying to rationalize or excuse the part failures and missing qa on your truck, but I would point out at this point you’ve pretty well shaken it out . The question for you is should you invest in a new 2020? or ride out your ’18 a year or 2 more for a new model? I know how you’re feeling, my Ducati was the same way. Absolutely nothing handled as good as that bike, it stuck like glue, and even when you tried you couldn’t get it out of shape. but it was constantly fighting me with all manner of issues. About the time it popped the radiator mount - a known issue, and shortly after fried the voltage regulator and battery, I’d had enough. Instead of the fun factor, every time was overshadowed by the feeling of ‘I hope I don’t get stranded, wonder what will fail this time’.

 

[df4801]

Id just get extended warranty.

Dont expect major changes in 2021. may even be as late as 2023 before we see.

 

[squeak11]

My 2018 Raptor (SuperCab, 802a) was a custom order. I paid MSRP of $61,900 at the time and traded in my 2012 Raptor for it. Unfortunately, it's been in the shop way too often, under warranty, and it's making me a bit uncomfortable.

Issues:

First - timing belt tensioner. It was gone nearly a month while this issue was resolved. Happened around 14,000 miles or so.

Second - charging system fault. Cable from the alternator to the fuse box worked itself loose on a trip from Texas to Arkansas. Bad timing.

Third - wrench icon when driving down the highway. Went into limp mode. Replaced throttle body, air speed sensor and turbo boost sensor. Happened around 22,000 miles.

Fourth - APIM went bad. Touchscreen stopped working, blue tooth stopped working, steering wheel radio controls stopped working. Took about 3 days to fix. Happened around 26,000 miles.

Fifth - happened this week. Check engine light. Crankcase pressure sensor had to be replaced. Happened at 34,500 miles.

My dealer has offered me $42k on trade and will let me order an allocation at the invoice price of $62,225 It would be another SuperCab 802A.

I'm slightly concerned that the 2021 models will have some new suspension or engine stuff, but with 34k on my 2018 I'm almost out of warranty and don't want to continue to have more issues.

So overall I'd be paying $325 more to move from a 2018 to a 2020 I suppose.

I do have Method Mesh wheels, Toyo 35" MTs and an ADD bumper/led bar I'd need to have the dealer transfer over, if I did trade in.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Based on your description and concerns you should get the 2020. You stated that you feel like your 18 is unreliable and no warranty will alleviate that feeling. With a new truck of any kind you will start with a clean slate and have a a sense of relief until it gives you a reason not to.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[500mag]

Based on your description and concerns you should get the 2020. You stated that you feel like your 18 is unreliable and no warranty will alleviate that feeling. With a new truck of any kind you will start with a clean slate and have a a sense of relief until it gives you a reason not to.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Agree. I had less problems than that with my new 2017 F-250 but enough to keep me aggravated - traded it in for '18 Rappy.

 

[John813]

First thought is to swap it.


But...
Just seems that trade in is low. I've yet to see a fairly loaded Gen2 Supercab Raptor down here for that cheap, unless they plan to add 8k on top of your trade in to bump the sale price to ~50k. Typically see dealers add 3-5k on top of trade in.

Then again, adding 325 a month to a car bill is pricey. Why not just get a 100k warranty for ~2k? Then when 2021 rolls out you can redecide if you want to upgrade or not, and you can get a refund for the pro-rated balance of the warranty-if you trade it in.

 

[DrippinRaptor]

Then again, adding 325 a month to a car bill is pricey. Why not just get a 100k warranty for ~2k? Then when 2021 rolls out you can redecide if you want to upgrade or not, and you can get a refund for the pro-rated balance of the warranty-if you trade it in.

That's not what I meant. I mean the difference between the MSRP I paid on my 2018 and the invoice price on the 2020 is a total of $325 more