those that have added a light bar

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stealthfrc

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i have one question about the upfitter switch and the harness i was supplied.

my harness/relay has 2 wires for battery, (ground and positive) 2 wires to the light, and 3 wires to a switch that comes with it. the 3 wires to the switch are white, blue, and black. this is where my question comes in, obviously i want to use the upfitter switch and its my understanding its a 1 wire hook up, so which of the 3 to the harness would be the one to hook up to the upfitter wire?

i know how to figure it out, but i wanted to ask to try and save some time.
 

ogdobber

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i have one question about the upfitter switch and the harness i was supplied.



my harness/relay has 2 wires for battery, (ground and positive) 2 wires to the light, and 3 wires to a switch that comes with it. the 3 wires to the switch are white, blue, and black. this is where my question comes in, obviously i want to use the upfitter switch and its my understanding its a 1 wire hook up, so which of the 3 to the harness would be the one to hook up to the upfitter wire?



i know how to figure it out, but i wanted to ask to try and save some time.



The switches are fused already, highest on the left (i think 30amp down to 10) anyways the two wires on your light, ground the black (to the frame or nearby nut) and run the red power to the desired as aux. The harness for the lights is for trucks without switches(upfitters) so toss it


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lottp

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The switches are fused already, highest on the left (i think 30amp down to 10) anyways the two wires on your light, ground the black (to the frame or nearby nut) and run the red power to the desired as aux. The harness for the lights is for trucks without switches(upfitters) so toss it


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AUX 1 & 2 = 15amp
AUX 3 & 4 = 10amp
AUX 5 & 6 = 5amp


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stealthfrc

stealthfrc

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The switches are fused already, highest on the left (i think 30amp down to 10) anyways the two wires on your light, ground the black (to the frame or nearby nut) and run the red power to the desired as aux. The harness for the lights is for trucks without switches(upfitters) so toss it


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i know they are but the light will draw more then the rated upfitter switch.

i know the harness i have is for trucks without upfitters but i should still be able to use it. i just need to know which of the 3 wires (white,blue,black) need to be hooked into the upfitter switch wire and the other 2 just get capped off.
 

ogdobber

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i know they are but the light will draw more then the rated upfitter switch.



i know the harness i have is for trucks without upfitters but i should still be able to use it. i just need to know which of the 3 wires (white,blue,black) need to be hooked into the upfitter switch wire and the other 2 just get capped off.



General rule of thumb. Use 1 and 2 for big lights (40 inch led) 3 and 4 for 20 inchers and 5 and 6 for cubes (2-4)
So for instance. 1 runs big light bar, 2 can run a 20 and some spot cubes, 5 a reverse light... Whatever
If you want to run all the front lights off one upfitter, then you need to add a relay, and the upfitter will turn on the relay that will then turn on all the lights (can be any upfitter for this)
There is going to be two wires coming from the light you have. Power and ground. Power goes to the upfitters and ground the black.
The beauty of today's leds vs yesterday's KCs, is leds take next nothing to run.
The harness does you no good unless you want to add another switch in the cab. Then you will have to run it through the firewall...


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stealthfrc

stealthfrc

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General rule of thumb. Use 1 and 2 for big lights (40 inch led) 3 and 4 for 20 inchers and 5 and 6 for cubes (2-4)
So for instance. 1 runs big light bar, 2 can run a 20 and some spot cubes, 5 a reverse light... Whatever
If you want to run all the front lights off one upfitter, then you need to add a relay, and the upfitter will turn on the relay that will then turn on all the lights (can be any upfitter for this)
There is going to be two wires coming from the light you have. Power and ground. Power goes to the upfitters and ground the black.
The beauty of today's leds vs yesterday's KCs, is leds take next nothing to run.
The harness does you no good unless you want to add another switch in the cab. Then you will have to run it through the firewall...


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that would be great, i was under the impression this light would be very close if not over the 15amp upfitter. ill give it a shot then. thanks.

anyone have any idea what this light has for a draw? i cant seem to find how many amps it rated at
The light bar is a Curved 240w Ultra spot 40" Light bar OZ-USA OSRAM LED off road fog hyper beam.
 
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jeffkrgutility

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that would be great, i was under the impression this light would be very close if not over the 15amp upfitter. ill give it a shot then. thanks.

anyone have any idea what this light has for a draw? i cant seem to find how many amps it rated at
The light bar is a Curved 240w Ultra spot 40" Light bar OZ-USA OSRAM LED off road fog hyper beam.

If it is 240 watts at 12 volts it should pull 20 amps.
 

kdub405

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i have one question about the upfitter switch and the harness i was supplied.



my harness/relay has 2 wires for battery, (ground and positive) 2 wires to the light, and 3 wires to a switch that comes with it. the 3 wires to the switch are white, blue, and black. this is where my question comes in, obviously i want to use the upfitter switch and its my understanding its a 1 wire hook up, so which of the 3 to the harness would be the one to hook up to the upfitter wire?



i know how to figure it out, but i wanted to ask to try and save some time.



Stealth, you are in the wrong section...go over to the lighting section.

Here is a link that might help..

Upfitter switches request for help!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...forum.com/showthread.php?t=52168&share_type=t


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