Normal
The fronts and rears are a little different. Rear - Install IFP and push all the way down. Install bypass tube and fill with 28oz of fluid. SLOWLY cycle the IFP up and down a few inches to remove any trapped air. When no more bubbles come up when pushing the IFP down, the system is bled. Pull the IFP up a few inches to decrease the height of the fluid in the main body. This will help to not overflow fluid when you install the shaft and top cap. I install the shaft/top cap with the shaft fully extended. Once the top cap is tight, open the bleed screws, charge with Nitrogen and close the bleed screws when no more bubble come out. You can also let it sit for a few min after you open the bleed screws and let it vent naturally then add the nitro to push the IFP up and purge all the remaining air. The important thing is to fill it with enough fluid so that when you charge the system the IFP does not bottom out at the end of the chamber. if you fill the rear with 28oz you should be good. PS, don't forget to add the snap ring on the IFP cap before charging. That thing will come off like a missile... ask me how i knowFronts - Install the IFP and and snap ring. Remove valve core or depress valve to push IFP down a few inches. Install bypass tube and fill with 20oz of fluid. Install top cap and shaft with shaft fully extended. open bleed screws and let it vent a few min. Charge with nitro and close bleed screws when no more bubbles are present. The fronts are a lot easier since most of the air is displaced when you pour the fluid in. But the same thing goes, make sure you don't top out the IFP when you charge it. 20oz is good for the fronts.You could push the IFP all the way down/up (closest to the valve) before you charge it with nitro. That would purge all the "air" out and give you 100% nitro in the chamber.Hopefully this helps. if not reach out again, i'm happy to help with this stuff and as you can see i don't mind giving a through explanation.
The fronts and rears are a little different.
Rear - Install IFP and push all the way down. Install bypass tube and fill with 28oz of fluid. SLOWLY cycle the IFP up and down a few inches to remove any trapped air. When no more bubbles come up when pushing the IFP down, the system is bled. Pull the IFP up a few inches to decrease the height of the fluid in the main body. This will help to not overflow fluid when you install the shaft and top cap. I install the shaft/top cap with the shaft fully extended. Once the top cap is tight, open the bleed screws, charge with Nitrogen and close the bleed screws when no more bubble come out. You can also let it sit for a few min after you open the bleed screws and let it vent naturally then add the nitro to push the IFP up and purge all the remaining air. The important thing is to fill it with enough fluid so that when you charge the system the IFP does not bottom out at the end of the chamber. if you fill the rear with 28oz you should be good. PS, don't forget to add the snap ring on the IFP cap before charging. That thing will come off like a missile... ask me how i know
Fronts - Install the IFP and and snap ring. Remove valve core or depress valve to push IFP down a few inches. Install bypass tube and fill with 20oz of fluid. Install top cap and shaft with shaft fully extended. open bleed screws and let it vent a few min. Charge with nitro and close bleed screws when no more bubbles are present. The fronts are a lot easier since most of the air is displaced when you pour the fluid in. But the same thing goes, make sure you don't top out the IFP when you charge it. 20oz is good for the fronts.
You could push the IFP all the way down/up (closest to the valve) before you charge it with nitro. That would purge all the "air" out and give you 100% nitro in the chamber.
Hopefully this helps. if not reach out again, i'm happy to help with this stuff and as you can see i don't mind giving a through explanation.
