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The only driveshaft you need to do that with is a 2 piece. We have 1 big solid ****. Should go in any positionHowdy,
Long story short: Local shop didn’t draw an index mark on the attachment point, and seem to have bolted the driveshaft back on in a different orientation, causing a driveline vibration.
I have no experience working on driveshafts, so I’d like to attempt to tackle this myself and learn something. I’m just unclear on what the process for rotating the driveshaft is? Remove the rear bolts, put it in neutral, twist 90° or 180°, and rebolt? Or does the entire assembly need to be removed and reinserted?
Apologies if this comes off as asinine.
All driveshafts need to be index marked before removal regardless of one or two piece. It will bolt up in any position, but you’re taking the risk of inducing a vibration if it’s not indexed.The only driveshaft you need to do that with is a 2 piece. We have 1 big solid ****. Should go in any position
What are you marking? The yoke going into the transmission and flange bolting to the rear end? How is that "Calibrated" in the factory?All driveshafts need to be index marked before removal regardless of one or two piece. It will bolt up in any position, but you’re taking the risk of inducing a vibration if it’s not indexed.
Yes if you entirely remove the drive shaft you should mark both ends... Also as I stated, if you remove the flange to replace the seal you should mark the flange as well to put it back exactly where it came out.What are you marking? The yoke going into the transmission and flange bolting to the rear end? How is that "Calibrated" in the factory?
If you are taking the flange off, I get that. It may be balanced with it but taking it off and on, I don't understand and may seem like a urban myth. It's not balanced to the trans or diff.Yes if you entirely remove the drive shaft you should mark both ends... Also as I stated, if you remove the flange to replace the seal you should mark the flange as well to put it back exactly where it came out.
Well every video of every tech I watched on how to replace the pinion seal all marked where the drive shaft connected to the flange and marked where the flange went into the diff, so that's what I did and I have zero issue. Maybe it's a myth and maybe not, but it takes seconds to mark to make sure you won't have a weird issue.If you are taking the flange off, I get that. It may be balanced with it but taking it off and on, I don't understand and may seem like a urban myth. It's not balanced to the trans or diff.
On a slip yoke you’re just indexing the driveshaft to pinion flange connection. It’s not necessary “calibrated” from the factory, what you’re trying to avoid is inducing a vibration that wasn’t there before disassembly.What are you marking? The yoke going into the transmission and flange bolting to the rear end? How is that "Calibrated" in the factory?
I'm not a mechanic. As far from it as @Oldfart 's goats trying to flee when he's on the prowl feeling h o r n y and r a n d y.
But, what stands out to me is the OP stating he has no experience with driveshafts. I'd want it fixed right by a dealer or go back to the idiots that didn't do it right in the first place.