Rocker Rust 2023

[MFNG]

Rockers aren’t as bad as yours yet, but give it time…

 

[MFNG]

@tacomoth I am a little confused on the 11k part. Was he offering 11k for the truck? or was he saying 11k to fix it?

FWIW I was quoted 5k in Central IL a year back - before all this large scale inflation - to do rockers and cab corners. I’m sure it’s probably doubled by now.

They would only do it all, not just corners, as they said everybody comes back a year or two later crying that their rockers rotted out now.

 

[MFNG]

Does this cause any structural damage like if I a wreck? When I step on the running boards it dips a little and squeaks. I can live with it if it is not going to make the truck split in half when in a wreck...

Anyone want to give me a quote? I am in a smaller town of 15k in East Texas....better going to larger city and getting it looked at?

Are you larger? I was concerned myself from day one, but I’m 6’3” and 220.

 

[tacomoth]

Is it me or in the very first pick, doesn’t it look like it’s been repaired before (right above the door seal) ?The bed is gonna have to come off in order to repair it fully and correctly. It’s gonna be pricey for sure but it will be TOTALLY worth it IMO. Replace the 3rd brake light gasket, drill out the rivet that holds down the top plastic cover on the roof of the cab seam and silicone the hole then attach new rivet, extend the sunroof drain tubes out from inside the rocker, then get it repaired.
BTWA, that black diamond plate someone out on didn’t help things either, putting those screws in there like that…. That’s a shame…
Good luck with the repairs man

Insee what you mean but that wasn't there originally when I bought it, so I think that is the progression. What are the chances a body shop knows how to do this properly? I don't know enough about all this 3rd brake light etc stuff. What is a reasonable price to walk away from all this and be done with it.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

Man if i was looking for used Raptors i would be sticking with southern states . I live in Arizona with zero rust on my 2010 , i do have some cooked clearcoat on the hood , but i can deal with that vs. rot . I know body work has gotten really expensive from what i'm seeing .

 

[MFNG]

Man if i was looking for used Raptors i would be sticking with southern states . I live in Arizona with zero rust on my 2010 , i do have some cooked clearcoat on the hood , but i can deal with that vs. rot . I know body work has gotten really expensive from what i'm seeing .

It absolutely sucks to be up north. I love the snow - when we get it, donuts are too fun in the Raptor - but we pay such a premium for vehicles as they get trashed so quickly in general.

 

[MFNG]

Insee what you mean but that wasn't there originally when I bought it, so I think that is the progression. What are the chances a body shop knows how to do this properly? I don't know enough about all this 3rd brake light etc stuff. What is a reasonable price to walk away from all this and be done with it.

Just depends where you are I guess. I don’t know much about body work, but I would say a northern state has more experience and knowledge about these things - I have looked into an entirely new (used) cab, even Gen 2 aluminum, but I’m told that won’t bolt up so to speak.

I would trust a Chicago/Minnesota area place to do it better than somewhere south because they deal with it all the time.

As far as price, man that’s tough these days. What’s it worth to you would be the bigger question.

I’m willing to get spendy once I pay it off completely here shortly, but that’s the “Franklin Close” one has to ask themselves.

Do you want to keep it forever, or is it just a pass through?

If I were you in the south I’d sell it back up north and let us suckers deal with it. Get a southern truck for your southern life is my 2 ¢.

 

[ratty]

I picked up my 2010 used about two years ago, and the rocker panels on both sides are completely gone... and I don't mean just rusted, i mean rust has completely vaporized them. On the good side, you can't see it unless you crawl under the truck... but on the bad side, it's crept up to the lower, rear (SCAB) door locking ring (or whatever you call it), but amazingly is still solid for the moment. And though I only had a small bit of rust on the tailgate when I got it, it's now completely eaten away the lower 2 inches of the bottom edge of the tailgate... including everything inside of it is rusted to hell as well. And the doors, both the driver's and passenger side main doors, have rusted around the handles... both handles just pulled right off the truck. I ended up fabricating aluminum mounts attached to the door handle assemblies on the inside to hold the handles into the doors. Even the chassis, though thick steel, its days are numbered as the rust is taking a hold of it down there too... it looks like whatever undercoating the truck once had, is long gone, and it was just bare metal since day one. I have my previous truck which has been sitting in my friend's lot outside for about 7 years now, an '84 Chevy crew cab dually (that I seized the engine from an oil pump failure), that has almost no rust at all. Modern vehicles SUCK. They cost a freakin' fortune, and they don't last at all, they're made out of paper mache', plastic, and dead butterfly wings... Hate new vehicles. Yeah, yeah, they have a ton more power and better handling, but so what good is it if they disintegrate in short order?

 

[tacomoth]

I have minimal interest in the truck anymore. Not sure my current lifestyle demands one. More interested in not having any payments....I guess if you told me I can spend 10k and the truck is still worth 30k vs just take 20k for it.....I would take the 20k and be done.

Will get some quotes. If it's 5 or 6 to fix it right....I would do that. Not interested in double that amount.

 

[MFNG]

I picked up my 2010 used about two years ago, and the rocker panels on both sides are completely gone... and I don't mean just rusted, i mean rust has completely vaporized them. On the good side, you can't see it unless you crawl under the truck... but on the bad side, it's crept up to the lower, rear (SCAB) door locking ring (or whatever you call it), but amazingly is still solid for the moment. And though I only had a small bit of rust on the tailgate when I got it, it's now completely eaten away the lower 2 inches of the bottom edge of the tailgate... including everything inside of it is rusted to hell as well. ANd the doors, both the driver's and passenger side main doors, have rusted around the handles... both handle just pulled right off the truck. I ended up fabricating aluminum mounts attached to the door handle assemblies on the inside to hold the handles onto the doors. Even the chassis, though thick steel, its days are numbered as the rust is taking a hold of it down there too... it looks like whatever undercoating the truck once had, is long gone, and it was just barely metal since day one. I have my previous truck which has been sitting in my friend's lot outside for about 7 years now, an '84 Chevy crew cab dually (that I seized the engine from an oil pump failure), that has almost no rust at all. Modern vehicles SUCK. They cost a freakin' fortune, and they don't last at all, they're made out of paper mache', plastic, and dead butterfly wings... Hate new vehicles. Yeah, yeah, they have a ton more power and better handling, but so what good is it if they disintegrate in short order?

This seems to be the case for us northerners.

I see here all the time everyone down south loving their Gen 1, which I do as well, but it doesn’t fit in my garage, my roads are inundated with salt/brine, and rust is just a way of life.

I love the truck, but the practical person in me says I’ll be in an aluminum body truck after this, regardless of how long I truly wish to keep it.

It’s that, or put it in a storage unit I guess, but what good is it there?