Review from stock suspension to mid travel and all flavors in between

[Mille_ed]

I have advanced fiberglass +2 fenders up front, and still running 35” tires but have zero offset wheels. I like changing one thing at a time, so might do 37s next.

I can’t stand rubbing fenders, though. I rubbed both the front (plastic) and rear (metal) fender liners with stock suspension and 35s.

What did you do to address the front/rear fenders? What size tires are you running?

Thx, awesome homework you did for us; I currently am in your round 2 and debating what rabbit hole to go down, or wait on a gen 3...

 

[Mille_ed]

SVC advertises 16” front and 17” back. I haven’t measured it myself, but makes sense. It’s a 8” coil over/bypass in front about halfway on the lca, and 18” shock in the back.

That’s compared to (I think) 13” and 13.9” oem. It’s night and day difference.


I do know it’s a pain in the ass to lift the rear to work on it. Before, I would just jack the whole rear end from the hitch. My pro eagle and extension no longer have enough stroke to gap the tires, and it gets super sketchy lifted up that high. I even have the extra tall 46” 10T jack stands.

@zombiekiller how the hell do you jack the rear?

@Mille_ed

Do you know what numbers you’re pulling front and rear now?

 

[Muchmore]

Kinda funny hearing the stockers turning into a rotisserie!

 

[Jakenbake]

SVC advertises 16” front and 17” back. I haven’t measured it myself, but makes sense. It’s a 8” coil over/bypass in front about halfway on the lca, and 18” shock in the back.

That’s compared to (I think) 13” and 13.9” oem. It’s night and day difference.


I do know it’s a pain in the ass to lift the rear to work on it. Before, I would just jack the whole rear end from the hitch. My pro eagle and extension no longer have enough stroke to gap the tires, and it gets super sketchy lifted up that high. I even have the extra tall 46” 10T jack stands.

@zombiekiller how the hell do you jack the rear?

Good deal. Are your 3.5’s in the rear 16”?

Based on the numbers you probably gained about 1.5” of droop in the rear. (17”-13.9” with 1.5” going to the uptravel with the SVC bumps).

I’m just curious if they are being conservative with the 17” advertised numbers.

 

[Mille_ed]

The rears are 18”, 3.5 kings. I just looked at how they’re mounted and you’re right, it’s possible the 17” is conservative. One of these days I’ll either cycle and measure it, or mock up the kinematics in cad.

Good deal. Are your 3.5’s in the rear 16”?

Based on the numbers you probably gained about 1.5” of droop in the rear. (17”-13.9” with 1.5” going to the uptravel with the SVC bumps).

I’m just curious if they are being conservative with the 17” advertised numbers.

 

[amREADY]

Great info! Thanks.

 

[MrGable27]

Post some pics!

 

[Mille_ed]

Post some pics!

SoCal is the best. Snow and desert both an hour away

 

[realjones88]

So if you wanted improved offroad performance where you didn't have to worry so much about breaking the truck, but still wanted a reasonable ride on road without a ton of clicking, is Round 3 decent enough or go 3A and drop another ~$5-6K for race shocks and UCAs?

 

[Mille_ed]

If you’re not looking to go wild, I would just upgrade the lacking rear: deavers and bump stops. You could splurge on trac bars too. I honestly don’t see the value in the fox race kit. It’s a ton of money to just avoid shock fade and similar performance as oem. Sure, upgraded ucas look cool, but there’s no performance benefit beyond having enough clearance to run bigger coil overs. The fringe benefit is that it allows you to lock the lcas and align on the uppers, but again, you might not need this if you’re not running the truck fairly hard and needing to re-align after every outing.

So if you wanted improved offroad performance where you didn't have to worry so much about breaking the truck, but still wanted a reasonable ride on road without a ton of clicking, is Round 3 decent enough or go 3A and drop another ~$5-6K for race shocks and UCAs?