GEN 2 Rear wiring through or outside frame?

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JohnyPython

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I’m getting ready to run the wires for my S1s and was wondering what everyone thinks?



I was gonna go through the trouble of fishing the wires through the frame for a cleaner look.
Negatives - PITA to do, possible damage to wires from rubbing on inside and frame holes
As far as I can see, Ford didn’t route any wires through the frame.

The closer I get, I think that routing wires beside the frame is easier and is the way to go.

I’m using silicone insulated 14ga wires and split loom tubing so that’s no problem.18B7BB8D-BBA2-4B40-BB00-48AE44C881A5.jpeg
 

Specialtyperformanceparts

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I’m getting ready to run the wires for my S1s and was wondering what everyone thinks?



I was gonna go through the trouble of fishing the wires through the frame for a cleaner look.
Negatives - PITA to do, possible damage to wires from rubbing on inside and frame holes
As far as I can see, Ford didn’t route any wires through the frame.

The closer I get, I think that routing wires beside the frame is easier and is the way to go.

I’m using silicone insulated 14ga wires and split loom tubing so that’s no problem.View attachment 169295


We have had several customers run their through the frame and they were very happy with the results. Many of them were very novice installers and they had great results. As far as rubbing, as long as there is a good loom or covering over your wire harness, you should be fine. To run the wires, you can get a coat hanger to fish through the holes in the frame in different sections, or they do make wire routing cables specifically for that. Running wires through tight places. It is quite common in ceilings with computer cable or electrical cable.

We ourselves though, typically run the wire up the outside of the frame away from the exhaust. Zip tie it tight all the way so it doesn't droop down and touch anything.

This is an install video I did a while back. I think I will remake another one soon, but it should help you see the best areas to go to.

John

 

dixonk

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The frame has enough holes in it to be able to fish it through all the way to the engine compartment. I ran a heavy gauge power wire for my fridge and was able to get it from battery to the bed in less than an hour.

For reverse lights there are harnesses that tap into the rear light though and no need to run it up to the front…unless you are trying to put them on the upfitters.
 

Specialtyperformanceparts

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The frame has enough holes in it to be able to fish it through all the way to the engine compartment. I ran a heavy gauge power wire for my fridge and was able to get it from battery to the bed in less than an hour.

For reverse lights there are harnesses that tap into the rear light though and no need to run it up to the front…unless you are trying to put them on the upfitters.

Yep, we just release the first one that you don't need to "TAP" anything. You just plug in the adaptor to the tail light. That saves you from potential wire corrosion and warranty issues.



Here is a link to a plug n play harness version if that what you would rather do. Not use the upfitters...


OR

If you want a plug n play version with both the tail light adapter and the full harness, you can get this one.


And add the adaptor


Or just get the adaptor and splice into your aftermarket harness if you don't mind doing that.

Lots of options.

Just be sure you have LOOM or a protective coating on your wires and you'll be fine.

John
 

Sonicsunspot

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Agree with frame comments above. I ran wire through the passenger side frame and had no issues. There is a bend near the back axle where it gets a bit tight, but it’s not that bad. I think the wire pulling part took maybe 30 minutes most of which was maneuvering my old body around under the truck.
 
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