GEN 1 Rear Differential Whine on 2014

[Xlr8tin]

So I have a very dreaded differential whine. I removed the plug and as I expected metallic shavings came out in the fluid.

My question is how difficult is it to replace these parts. I'm assuming it is the ring and pinion gear that would need to be replaced?

Next question is what exactly do I need to get, and can anyone send a good link for a source?

Lastly, My 2014 is supercharged, and I can only imagine is the reason for the failure? Are there parts that can take the extra HP/TQ? Or is stock good enough??

If the job is straightforward enough I might tackle it myself. If not, I'll drop it off at the transmission shop I just called, but they are 3 weeks out, and I need it done asap. So having parts on hand might speed this up.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Xlr8tin]

The dealer closest to me just told me it would be 3-4 months before they could even look at it. Exactly why I didn't want to call them. They weren't even helpful. I asked how much it would be for the parts to replace the inner items and he said they would have to bring it in to look at it...That's when he said 3-4 months...It's not going to last 3-4 months.

 

[II Sevv]

My knowledge on differentials is rather low as far as what fails, but if it is the ring and pinion, you can buy an aftermarket one in the gear ratio of your choice for $400-500 ($200-300 plus the install kit) with all of the new seals, shims, and other parts required for install. There are lots of DIY’s.

 

[Xlr8tin]

My knowledge on differentials is rather low as far as what fails, but if it is the ring and pinion, you can buy an aftermarket one in the gear ratio of your choice for $400-500 ($200-300 plus the install kit) with all of the new seals, shims, and other parts required for install. There are lots of DIY’s.

Would you happen to have a link to a good site for something like this?

 

[II Sevv]

I know that Yukon and nitro both supposedly make good gear sets. I would just use google, find whoever has the best deal, and buy them there. Don’t forget to buy the gears plus the install kit. Assuming it’s your gears that are bad.

 

[Xlr8tin]

Can anyone tell me what would cause the whine? Is it the bearings inside? Right now I am leaning towards it needing to be rebuilt after watching a few different videos. Again this is more of a question and not a statement. I could be way off, but there are no other loud noises like clunking from the rear end.

Thoughts from people who have had this same issue.

BTW, the truck only has 75k miles on it

 

[GCATX]

Can anyone tell me what would cause the whine? Is it the bearings inside? Right now I am leaning towards it needing to be rebuilt after watching a few different videos. Again this is more of a question and not a statement. I could be way off, but there are no other loud noises like clunking from the rear end.

Thoughts from people who have had this same issue.

BTW, the truck only has 75k miles on it

Is the whine constant? Does it change when you let off the gas? It could be a bearing or the gears themselves.

I know it sounds weird, but I would call around to some heavy duty, like 18 wheeler places that specialize in driveshafts and gears. Those guys can do anything. Unless it's under warranty, then go to dealer.

Installing new gears is not a rookie DIY type job unfortunately. I've done a bunch, it requires special tools and there are 100 ways to do it wrong, and 1 way to do it right.

 

[B E N]

I am dealing with this on a local guys truck. In the case of his truck the input side bearing has play. To me that means full rebuild and here is why: If one bearing has play that means that hardened bearing material has probably gone through every other bearing in the axle, the metal plug works pretty good but it isn't perfect. If you're going to tear into the axle for inspection you can have the other bearings checked, but I would plan on all the bearings and seals at a minimum. Ring and pinion should also be inspected, the tolerances will have to be checked and set when new bearings are put in so a little wear isn't a huge deal.

The good news is any 4x4, truck or axle shop can do this job for you no problem. The 9.75 in these is very common and most shops will have experience with it, it's also simple.

This seems to be more of a problem with the supercharged trucks. More power=more maintenance. Let it go to long and you will probably break the R&P due to slop being introduced.

 

[PorterW1111]

check sdhq they sell nitro gears and install kits. if its a constant whine/whirl then its a bearing. if its a clunk then its a broken gear. how many miles are on the truck?

if its a constant whine/whirl you can still drive it but its going to get even louder and continue to do damage to other parts.

if its a clunk/grinding then its gears.

you can do a rebuild kit which contains bearing seals, bolts, and so on but best bet is going to be new ring and pinon too as the installer will be able to set the rear end up based on new specs not worn specs. biggest thing is make sure you take it to a known good rear end shop. a run of the mill service center that doesn't get the backspacing right. or just uses the old shims and a new crush sleeve will leave you with a still noisy rear end.

i could go on and on.. let me know if yo have questions.

 

[FordTechOne]

A high pitched whine noise is typically pinion bearing failure. A rear axle rebuild is not a DIY unless you have extensive experience and the required tools. Setting the pinion depth, preload, backlash, and side bearing preload all require precision, and even with everything in spec you still need to verify contact pattern.

If only the pinion bearings have failed, any decent shop should be able to repair it properly. If the ring and pinion are damaged, you will want to find a shop that specializes in driveline/differential repair. Note that many aftermarket R&P sets do not match OE quality and can be noisy even when properly set up.