andreb
Full Access Member
No pics but there are plenty videos online to see. This is just a few tips on the instillation.
1997-2016 Ford F150 (For tailgate with OEM manual lock)
The new F-150's have it so I figured it was a good add to my truck. Now I don't have to constantly check the tailgate to see if its locked. It also makes a nice sounds when locking so you get another audible clue your truck locked. This is nice when you're at the back of the truck and don't visually see the marker lights flash.
The lock solenoid is very easy to install in the tailgate. The supplied bracket is very nice laser cut stainless steel. The actuator itself is pretty standard but seems good, I didn't get what brand it is. The entire assembly is well thought out and designed. Two bullet connectors attach it to the wiring harness that runs up front.
I secured the wires at the exit hole on the tailgate with the factory wires that are mounted on a small locator tab. I looped the extra around the harness up by the spare tire where it T's out to the taillights. A two-way Weather Pack connector is used so you can always disconnect it if you need to remove the tailgate. I positioned this close to the trailer electrical connector for easy access.
Be careful with the Torx screws that hold the plastic tailgate cover on. There are barely any threads for them in the sheet metal. A few have threaded inserts but only like 2-3. I used some blue Loctite and just snugged them down. Most were loose when I went to remove them. I plan to drill the holes out one day and add NutSerts. The screws are shouldered so that limits how tight you can get the cover on.
The included wires are 18 AWG in a tough over-molded sheath. I ran it along the factory harness inside the frame and followed it through the cross over in front of the fuel tank. Its more than enough wire to do the job even if you want to bring it in through the firewall.
In my SCREW there is a rubber grommet in the rear of the door sill channel. I punched a small hole in that and ran the cable into the cab there. From there you'll have to run the cable forward into the front door sill channel because the wires you need are not in the rear. I used the included Scotch locks/wire taps to connect into the factory wires.
The grey/brown stripe wire is the lock wire
The light blue/green stripe is the unlock wire
The wires from the power lock are green and blue. Connect the green wire to the grey/brown stripe lock wire. The blue wire then goes to the light blue/green stripe wire. If you get it wrong you can always swap them easily at the bullet connectors but I'm a stickler for this sort of thing so I took the time to get it right. Running the wires is the hardest part.
It works perfectly. I wish Ford would have included this from the factory especially knowing how easy it is to steal a F-150 tailgate. My friend's 2014 Dodge Ram has it!
1997-2016 Ford F150 (For tailgate with OEM manual lock)
The new F-150's have it so I figured it was a good add to my truck. Now I don't have to constantly check the tailgate to see if its locked. It also makes a nice sounds when locking so you get another audible clue your truck locked. This is nice when you're at the back of the truck and don't visually see the marker lights flash.
The lock solenoid is very easy to install in the tailgate. The supplied bracket is very nice laser cut stainless steel. The actuator itself is pretty standard but seems good, I didn't get what brand it is. The entire assembly is well thought out and designed. Two bullet connectors attach it to the wiring harness that runs up front.
I secured the wires at the exit hole on the tailgate with the factory wires that are mounted on a small locator tab. I looped the extra around the harness up by the spare tire where it T's out to the taillights. A two-way Weather Pack connector is used so you can always disconnect it if you need to remove the tailgate. I positioned this close to the trailer electrical connector for easy access.
Be careful with the Torx screws that hold the plastic tailgate cover on. There are barely any threads for them in the sheet metal. A few have threaded inserts but only like 2-3. I used some blue Loctite and just snugged them down. Most were loose when I went to remove them. I plan to drill the holes out one day and add NutSerts. The screws are shouldered so that limits how tight you can get the cover on.
The included wires are 18 AWG in a tough over-molded sheath. I ran it along the factory harness inside the frame and followed it through the cross over in front of the fuel tank. Its more than enough wire to do the job even if you want to bring it in through the firewall.
In my SCREW there is a rubber grommet in the rear of the door sill channel. I punched a small hole in that and ran the cable into the cab there. From there you'll have to run the cable forward into the front door sill channel because the wires you need are not in the rear. I used the included Scotch locks/wire taps to connect into the factory wires.
The grey/brown stripe wire is the lock wire
The light blue/green stripe is the unlock wire
The wires from the power lock are green and blue. Connect the green wire to the grey/brown stripe lock wire. The blue wire then goes to the light blue/green stripe wire. If you get it wrong you can always swap them easily at the bullet connectors but I'm a stickler for this sort of thing so I took the time to get it right. Running the wires is the hardest part.
It works perfectly. I wish Ford would have included this from the factory especially knowing how easy it is to steal a F-150 tailgate. My friend's 2014 Dodge Ram has it!
