Welcome to FRF!
#OneLessprius
There are a few sticky posts in Jen Too section; drive modes, etc. worth a read.
Check for plastic oil pan or metal. metal is better, if plastic, make sure it isn’t leaking, it’s an intricate repair that has to be done properly.
Know the TSB’s and recalls that have been performed. I think there’s a valve cover / oil consumption one that may be of concern for ’18’s - someone check me here.
check history to see if cam phaser repairs have been done and when. see if the re-program has been done as well. there is a ubiquitous start up rattle that can occur on some trucks. you notice on a truly cold startup, sitting 8+ hours without use. it can rattle for up to about 5 seconds and go away. it sounds bad, but generally is harmless. it’s a failure of the phaser to ‘park’ correctly. There are multitudes of posts on it, but for all the bluster it’s not --that-- many trucks affected. if it’s not noisy on cold startup, probably not anything to worry about.
Ford 4x4 uses a vacuum powered IWE to engage and disengage the front hubs, updated on the ‘21+. If you notice a ‘rattling’ like sound on acceleration that goes away and you are in 2wd / 2Hi, test again in 4a(auto / AWD ) if it goes away there’s a vacuum issue in the IWE system, almost always a check valve - they’re like 9 bucks on amazon.
IF you have a 2x panel moonroof, caution is warranted and upkeep required.
1) get the Ford Krytox grease to lube the seals to glass contact. expensive, but it works and lasts. Ensure the glass to rubber does not stick.
2) ALWAYS open the glass to vent position FIRST, then close. If you heard a POP sound like the seals sticking to the glass, REPEAT and be sure the seal is no longer sticking. Only proceed to moving the glass rearward if it’s not sticking.
3) if you hear the popping sound while the glass is being moved rearward, chances are the moon roof tracks just got damaged. close the glass and check it out either using Youtube or have a service dept. check it out.
Drive modes only last a single ignition cycle. when you shut the truck down, the truck will start up in Normal eco drive mode, which sucks. Your transfer case mode does NOT change with ignition cycle. So if you shut down in crawl mode / 4L, you restart and you’re in Normal eco mode, in 4L and have to reselect you’re previous drive mode or the one you want.
If you like 4a, for example and sport mode, you get to select both, every time you start the truck because <snipped long diatribe> there’s no easy workaround or mod for this.
IF you start up and inadvertently or on purpose hit the shift+/- buttons on the shifter OR touch the paddles, the dash gear shift display will go blank.
Hit + and they will return. IF you hit - after blanking out the gears, you will lock out 10th gear. I’m pretty sure, it’s been a while. see the manual...
Paddles and shift button work differently in regular shift mode, than if the transmission is in manual shift mode. In normal shift mode, the paddles lock out gears on the - paddle and add them back on the + paddle. This is just so the truck won’t shift into a higher gear than you want while towing for example. In Manual shift mode, the paddles work like people expect, left paddle to downshift, right to upshift. If you come to a dead stop, the truck downshifts for you, but won’t upshift for you. Finally, you may think you can out shift the 10R80, but first gear is gone very quickly and it’s really easy to bounce off the rev limiter. They can be pretty useful in some off road situations.
Enjoy the Rap !