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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford SVT Raptor General Discussions [GEN 1]
New Owner - Maintenance Timelines
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<blockquote data-quote="Augster" data-source="post: 2095161" data-attributes="member: 19867"><p>There's no "preventative" maintenance that can be done with springs; you either replace them all in advance at some arbitrary point in time, or just wait until one breaks and R&R just that one. The Ford 6.2L is notorious for breaking valve springs. When they break, you will DEFINITELY know as the engine runs horribly.</p><p></p><p>Had my #8 intake break on me last September.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]482499[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>If you're mechanically inclined, it's not difficult to replace so long as you have the right tools. I used a Cylinder Leak-Down tester with the jug at TDC and attached an air compressor to assist keeping the valve closed during the replacement.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]482502[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Throw on the spring compressor, crank away, then use a magnetic pick-up tool to remove the valve spring keepers.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]482503[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive, which consists of a new OEM spring and valve cover gasket. I also replaced the valve stem seal while I was in there.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]482504[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The biggest problem I had was removing the coil-on-plug electrical connectors; after 12 years and 150k+, the red locking tabs were brittle on mine and several of them broke off.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]482505[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>A genuine Ford repair pigtail is pricey, so replacing multiple sets can ring up your repair costs significantly. But I found the manufacturer part number of the connector and sourced just those at $1.46 from Mouser and cannibalized just their red tabs to replace all my broken ones.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Augster, post: 2095161, member: 19867"] There's no "preventative" maintenance that can be done with springs; you either replace them all in advance at some arbitrary point in time, or just wait until one breaks and R&R just that one. The Ford 6.2L is notorious for breaking valve springs. When they break, you will DEFINITELY know as the engine runs horribly. Had my #8 intake break on me last September. [ATTACH type="full" alt="img_3639_ed0f99532c59b738fba0a5d818ca2da9a006b130.jpeg"]482499[/ATTACH] If you're mechanically inclined, it's not difficult to replace so long as you have the right tools. I used a Cylinder Leak-Down tester with the jug at TDC and attached an air compressor to assist keeping the valve closed during the replacement. [ATTACH type="full" alt="img_3746_7bae60b15d2e7ed4f54e4ffeb69f0a91e5267cb6.jpeg"]482502[/ATTACH] Throw on the spring compressor, crank away, then use a magnetic pick-up tool to remove the valve spring keepers. [ATTACH type="full" alt="img_3761_7ef0fb4c3673bfd3c97fde5f5590d243e55c9954.jpeg"]482503[/ATTACH] Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive, which consists of a new OEM spring and valve cover gasket. I also replaced the valve stem seal while I was in there. [ATTACH type="full" alt="img_3742_2fe1a8bbb274866922c1c958cddacdd60eab1f16.jpeg"]482504[/ATTACH] The biggest problem I had was removing the coil-on-plug electrical connectors; after 12 years and 150k+, the red locking tabs were brittle on mine and several of them broke off. [ATTACH type="full" alt="untitled_bd1360a881a1bd6ec3002d034c038dc095dc6a8d.jpg"]482505[/ATTACH] A genuine Ford repair pigtail is pricey, so replacing multiple sets can ring up your repair costs significantly. But I found the manufacturer part number of the connector and sourced just those at $1.46 from Mouser and cannibalized just their red tabs to replace all my broken ones. [/QUOTE]
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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
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