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Message: <blockquote data-quote="smurfslayer" data-source="post: 1377569" data-attributes="member: 21926">I think I understand a; that’s about 70mph, and of course, you’re pushing almost 6k pounds here.  I don’t think the transmission will downshift you far enough to get into peak power or sufficiently into the curve.  Try again manually shifting and get your rpms close to 3k to start and then floor it. You’re fighting a few things here.  Normal mode’s “economy or die” programming, the “don’t overrev” logic, and that you’re driving a brick shaped vehicle that is...  big framed.  I’ve sometimes had issues coming off an exit ramp, particularly in ‘normal’ mode, so you’re just lumbering along at 30 or so mph, but the transmission is in 7th or 8th gear!  A downshift from any OD gear to power is a longer operation than 2-7th gear. It just is.  If I use sport mode, it does keep the transmission from upshifting way too high, but, if I manually shift, and come off the exit in 4th or 3rd if it’s a slower exit, I get a better response.  There’s plenty of motor and she’s got 4.10 gears, and I’m having a hard time imagining how any of the competing trucks with higher gears and less power perform better in the 60-70mph acceleration category. b)  About 60%(?) of us can make no excuse for the B&O and Sony systems before it. For the money, it’s an absolute rip off. What you can do to mitigate this is directly proportional to what you’re willing to spend.  I’ve got the sony, so your path will be necessarily more expensive, but check out the “under $500” thread for guidance on starting points.  Prevailing wisdom is that a decent set of components up front; replace the front door speakers - and the tweeter with the component set, leave the rear doors along, wire in an amp’ed sub.  B&O guys - you don’t need a DSP for just the sub do you?  For the Sony system you can just cut in a sub with speaker level inputs, drop an 8” kicker in there and suddenly you have bass.  If that’s not enough, I’d pick up a DSP and amp, rear door speakers- coax is probably enough here, rear doors supporting cast, not the star of the show.  The main reason for replacing them is the stockers will die a horrible death with a more powerful amp.  You should be able to do the above under $1500 or so(?) c)  I can’t disagree with this, nor can I provide a workaround.</blockquote>

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