Max boost with tune and stock bov

[Justin3773]

Hi I’m just curious what’s the max boost you guys are running while tuned with stock bov? Is 22psi still safe for stock turbos and bov?

 

[smurfslayer]

I think you’ll run into heat soak issues on a stock intercooler before the BOV is an issue. There are a bunch of tuned trucks here with stock BOV, it will depend on the tuner, strategy and what they’re trying to do with the tune.

If you’re chasing big numbers, you’ll need an intercooler; stock location or FMIC. There’s only so much more boost you can add before you get diminishing returns too and I don’t think it’s much above stock boost. Once you hit that point, heat is going to be a concern and you just won’t gain any more power for it. Big turbos are needed to see any real gains beyond a run of the mill tune on the truck. Which brings with it the need to upgrade the bottom end as I recall because if you push the bigger turbos, you’re stressing everything past what it can handle at full power.

 

[Justin3773]

Ok thanks for the detailed explanation. I will upgrade my intercooler next. I have exhaust and intake would turbo adaptors help also ?

 

[smurfslayer]

I don’t think any of that stuff will get you any tangible benefit until you go to bigger turbos. The turbos are close to maxed out if I understand correctly and they’re at peak or close to peak efficiency. There’s so little turbo lag as to be negligible.

Intercooler won’t actually get you any HP but it will keep you from losing as much HP as temps go up. Plus, intercooler sets you up if you do decide to tune the truck.

 

[TwizzleStix]

I’m running 23-25psi on the stock turbos. That’s the limit of efficiency, so more boost is no good.

Also note, the bov has zero to do with the amount of boost the system runs. Common misconception based on ignorance (or inexperience if you prefer) of different vehicles systems and movie crap. I’ve encountered one oem (Mazdaspeed DISI) that designed the stock plastic bov to actually limit manifold pressure. It was a balanced-pressure design that would leak more than 20psi (over barometric) manifold pressure back into the intake side. The only motorsport body that ran boost limiting valves was the CART organization that limited manifold pressure to limit max engine power.

Smurf is correct that the other common bolt-ons provide no benefit on stock turbos. The FMIC only allows peak power longer before the ECU pulls timing due to high manifold air temp. Note you (your tuner?) can raise or lower the temp limits along with the timing response. Tuning, not bolt-ons, is the key to power for Ecoboost engines.

 

[17raptor802aoxwhite]

Hey guys I have a 2017 raptor with a cobb stage 1 tune when I used the boost gage on the cobb accesport my boost sometimes creeps up towards 26 lbs of boost under full throttle pulls .I have a cobb intake also. After 1 or 2 pulls the boost stayes under 22 because of heat Temps for intercooler reach about 140 I think that's when the computer starts to pull back timing, not sure if this is normal but have ran this tune for almost 2 years with no problems. Thought this info might help

 

[jimmyjamm]

The bolts on that will help some (we aren't talking 100+ numbers, but small gains in the 10-30ish Hp & torque with each add) are:

Intake:
-larger intake filter to allow for proper amounts of air flow with less restriction-if getting an intake kit usually they come with a more efficient filter to intake Y pipe for better flow, reduced intake velocities and additional intake runner volume help with both throttle response and top end power;
-Intake tubes, both hot side and cool side, with increased boost you will get increased intake velocities that cause more friction losses in the intake, also, more intake volume allows for reduced pressure fluctuations from each intake pulse.

Exhaust:
-turbo flange adapters, these will increase efficiency into downtubes and reduce back pressure and heat in the turbo-helps with durability;
-downtubes, common upgrade on any turbo vehicle are larger and mandrel bent downtubes, allows for faster spool and more volume with lower exhaust gas velocities reduce friction and heat buildup that robs power at higher rpms (keep the heat in the main stream of exhaust gas flow and that aids in ability for the exhaust gases to flow more efficiently);
-eliminate the exhaust resonator, as it reduces the exhaust pipe size from 3" to 2.75" that causes restriction (the stock mufflers aren't awfully restrictive, so those can stay);
-change out the tailpipes from the muffler back with mandrel bent tailpipes, the OE pipes are 3" but with all of the conventional bends they add a lot of restriction from the inefficient bends with changes in internal pipe diameter and shape causing pressure fluctuations and friction losses.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

Hey guys I have a 2017 raptor with a cobb stage 1 tune when I used the boost gage on the cobb accesport my boost sometimes creeps up towards 26 lbs of boost under full throttle pulls .I have a cobb intake also. After 1 or 2 pulls the boost stayes under 22 because of heat Temps for intercooler reach about 140 I think that's when the computer starts to pull back timing, not sure if this is normal but have ran this tune for almost 2 years with no problems. Thought this info might help

Think that is just peaks between shifts , boost can get that hi but a very short time milliseconds . I do not think stock turbos could maintain 26 psi at wot for a full 1/4 mile pull .

 

[TwizzleStix]

The bolts on that will help some (we aren't talking 100+ numbers, but small gains in the 10-30ish Hp & torque with each add) are:

Intake:
-larger intake filter to allow for proper amounts of air flow with less restriction-if getting an intake kit usually they come with a more efficient filter to intake Y pipe for better flow, reduced intake velocities and additional intake runner volume help with both throttle response and top end power;
-Intake tubes, both hot side and cool side, with increased boost you will get increased intake velocities that cause more friction losses in the intake, also, more intake volume allows for reduced pressure fluctuations from each intake pulse.

Exhaust:
-turbo flange adapters, these will increase efficiency into downtubes and reduce back pressure and heat in the turbo-helps with durability;
-downtubes, common upgrade on any turbo vehicle are larger and mandrel bent downtubes, allows for faster spool and more volume with lower exhaust gas velocities reduce friction and heat buildup that robs power at higher rpms (keep the heat in the main stream of exhaust gas flow and that aids in ability for the exhaust gases to flow more efficiently);
-eliminate the exhaust resonator, as it reduces the exhaust pipe size from 3" to 2.75" that causes restriction (the stock mufflers aren't awfully restrictive, so those can stay);
-change out the tailpipes from the muffler back with mandrel bent tailpipes, the OE pipes are 3" but with all of the conventional bends they add a lot of restriction from the inefficient bends with changes in internal pipe diameter and shape causing pressure fluctuations and friction losses.

*SIGH* Pure sales ad rubbish. The saying goes that "ignorance is bliss", but it usually leaves out the part that says, "but it will cost you money".

 

[Badgertits]

*SIGH* Pure sales ad rubbish. The saying goes that "ignorance is bliss", but it usually leaves out the part that says, "but it will cost you money".

intake/intake tubes & mufflers probably won’t add power.....but downpipes will

as would higher flowing cats (or no cats at all)

after that - agreed- it’s either bigger turbos, stroke out the engine & upgrade pistons or get into swapping out cam profiles but I think that’s chasing minimal gains & introducing more headaches than it’s worth on a Ford EB motor