GEN 1 I need Help please - Front grinding noise

[SVTRaptorGT500]

Does the wrench light come on? Regardless, I would start by pulling DTCs with ForScan. It’s also possible something is mechanically binding in the T-case.

No more wrenches, it does indicate that shifts go down. Before I would get the wrench. I'll give it the scan ... What is forscan?

 

[FordTechOne]

No more wrenches, it does indicate that shifts go down. Before I would get the wrench. I'll give it the scan ... What is forscan?

It’s a free aftermarket software program that can do the majority of what the factory scan tool can do. You just need a compatible adapter. Info is available here:

What's new

 

[Gen1TillDeath]

Any update ? Curious…

 

[SVTRaptorGT500]

Any update ? Curious…

Hello Amigo!
Well … I can barely hear the noise, I'm starting to think that the noise that I am hearing might be from the tires/road. I am waiting for the juice so I can replace the front diff fluid so I can rule that out.

Also waiting on the obd tool so I can hit it with the forscarn. To get any other codes that may be active.
- I haven't started diagnosing the 4L issue that I experienced.

Fun Tidbit: on Weds I went to pick up some meds for my son. My truck DIED in the drive through … at the front. I had noticed a lazy crank 3 days before this happened. I knew the battery was on its last leg. I ended up going with that rebranded Odessy ... The DieHard Platinum AGM. I don't know if I am cray but ... I feel like the Battery has minimized that sound even more. I don't know maybe its just me.

 

[DesertKahuna]

I am having this exact problem with my 2018 Raptor. It's been going on almost since I bought it. I've taken it in to get serviced for this twice. The first time I was told it was related to a recall notice, so they performed that recall repair and sent me on my way. Still happened. The second time they told me it was the Cam Phasers and they replaced those. On the drive home from the shop, I experienced the same problem ($#@!!). I have pretty much ignored it since... but it's getting much worse. Actually it's more hit and miss but when it happens, it's sounds and feels like I'm dropping the entire undercarriage on the highway. I started to put together a pattern, though, and so I decided to put a theory to the test. One day when it was happening really bad, I engaged 4WD and it immediately went away. Later that day, after no further sounds, I put it back in 2WD and no problems... so far. My theory is this problem gets progressively worse until I switch into 4WD (which I do occasionally). Once I do that, and switch back to 2WD, I'm good for weeks, maybe even a couple months, before the noise starts again.

And to be clear, the "noise" sounds like a heavy metallic rattling in the front of the car. The noise usually starts on the left front and seems to travel to the right front (like you were hearing someone switching speakers from left to right). About half the time, this noise is followed by a hammer that can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor boards. Usually when the noise starts, I can let off the gas for a moment and the noise will stop before I feel the hammer. But 30 seconds later, it's back.

Does anyone have the exact bead on this issue and what needs fixed so I can converse better (and more sternly) with my Ford service rep? I'm ready to tell them, "It's not the Cam Phasers. It's the ******* Photon Torpedoes!" Obviously I need something better. Thanks to anyone who can provide some clarity.

 

[adamjg2]

@SVTRaptorGT500
FYI, my 2013, at roughly 6 years old and 60k Mi, are the main computer. I had same symptoms, periodic long cracks, crazy idling at stop, and even stalling several times starting out from a stop. It finally refused to even crank. Dealer took months to diagnose, claimed they weren’t used to working on Raptor engines and I had to tell them how ridiculous that statement was as this engine is/was the base engine for the SDs for a decade. Regardless, they eventually found another 6.2 main computer, swapped and the truck was better.
I would also make sure the fuse relocation is done, mine was scorched and I replaced the original fuse. Dealer said that wasn’t the issue and wouldn’t do the relocation, so I had to do that myself. Good luck.

 

[mprice1234]

Time to find a new dealer to take your truck to.

 

[adamjg2]

We PCS’d and moved about 6mo later. It is a PITA trying to find a good dealer constantly. I do what I can myself as I like doing it and it feels good to ‘save’ on the labor, WHIlLE trying to buy new tools.

 

[SVTRaptorGT500]

Hello friends, my apologies for taking so long to reply. I had to put these updates on hold. I lost both of my parents to cancer in the span of 30 days and I guess for good measure my dog in between that time frame.

I don't remember exactly where I left off but here goes,
Check the torque spec on your Upper control arms. I changed out my entire front suspension and stuff. And I took it in to get an alignment and the issue was faint afterwards.

I did take my tires to get rotated and balanced also.

I no longer her that noise. now I have another noise but I know what it is. My CV axle isn't tight/snug up against my wheel hub. I think maybe rockauto sent me the wrong part? I need to remove and replace. Just makes a little knocking sound at surface street speeds, once on the freeway it stops.

Also, I can't find my obd cable to connect it to my laptop to get the forscan going. I need to find it, I was having other issues that others offered to take a look at ... I think. I'll get back on that grind.

TIA

 

[Big Blue]

The OBD port is located under the dashboard on the driver's side in the center. If you look at the center of your brake pedal, just pan up and it's directly above.