Any extra steering wheel bolts????
Heated Wheel Retrofit
- Thread starter enjoitheride
- Start date
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Haha sorry, no.Any extra steering wheel bolts????
I reused the original one. Feel totally fine about it too, as long as it’s torqued to factory spec.
They're about $13 for a four-pack. Cost half that to ship one of them.Any extra steering wheel bolts????
The part number is back in this thread somewhere. I ordered online and they were in stock at local dealer.
Haha was kidding, I brought it up a few pages agoThey're about $13 for a four-pack. Cost half that to ship one of them.
The part number is back in this thread somewhere. I ordered online and they were in stock at local dealer.
OP
OP
enjoitheride
Full Access Member
Digital either works or it doesn’t. Some people got it, some did not. Either way, having the heated wheel is more important.
Not entirely true.
I had the same digital readout HVAC. Tried first just with Forscan. No luck. Wouldn’t accept programming.
Today I had access to FDRS. I was able to force programming. It’s working.
There is a way.
Wichadicha
Full Access Member
Forscan will do it. You have to be on the latest version ending in .51 Any earlier will error out
Not always. Before going to FDRS I tried *.51 FORScan and it still failed. FDRS was the solution. Writing up my findings right now.
I wanted to compile everything that I learned about the heated steering wheel retrofit - including some things I thought to be true but that I now know are not true (regarding the digital read out HVAC). Hopefully this post can/will serve as a repository of information for anyone looking to tackle this. I'll try to update this post (or delete it) if the information in it becomes obsolete or inaccurate.
Abbreviations
MY = Model Year
HSW = Heated Steering Wheel
SCCM = Steering Column Control Module
HVAC = Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (for purposes of this retrofit, refers to the HVAC control module in the dash)
APIM = Accessory Protocol Interface Module
BGGD = Boosted Grey Goose Designs (https://www.boostedgreygoosedesigns.net/)
FDRS = Ford Diagnostic and Repair System
Ford PTS = Ford Professional Technician Society
PN = Part Number
AB = As-Built
What is my truck actually missing?
Nobody can speak for your specific truck with certainty except for Ford. But there are some observed norms seen by multiple people who have done this retrofit:
What do I need?
Again, I can't speak for everyone's specific truck with certainty, but the following parts list should be sufficient for 100% of people trying to do this retrofit. It's possible you may be able to do it with different/fewer parts, but this list *should* always work.
Also, it should be meantioned that instead of sourcing the SCCM and HVAC separately, you can purchase them together (at a really good price) from BGGD as a bundle. They also include a harness that is not needed in the MY23 Raptor. The HVAC included in this kit is NL3Z-19980-S, without digital readout.
Do I need the HVAC/which HVAC should I buy?
Good question.
The answer to question 1 is, NO, the HVAC is not necessary, but you will have to enable the soft buttons on SYNC using Unreal SYNC theme.
Assuming you want a hardware button: there have been many of us, myself included, that have had issues programming the digital readout HVAC. No such reports with the non-digital readout part. Unfortunately, the non-digital readout HVAC is significantly more expensive. That said, if you want to be sure that there will be no issues getting the HVAC programmed with FORScan, I suggest the non-digital readout HVAC.
I did ultimately get the digital readout HVAC programmed, however, it required access to FDRS and a compatible cable (such as a Mongoose cable). Note that the cable and access to FDRS are not cheap. FDRS was able to reprogram the digital readout HVAC to as-built values, after which I was able to make the necessary modifications with FORScan.
Some people have been able to get the digital readout HVAC to accept programming from FORScan directly (using both versions *.50 and *.51), but this was not my experience, and I believe others had similar issues as well. The reason for the inconsistency isn't totally clear to me, but it may have to do with software version on the HVAC. If you have access to FDRS and a compatible cable, I would say it is extremely likely be able to get the digital readout HVAC working. If not, I'd say it's a bit of a crapshoot.
What about programming?
Programming is done with Forscan. It’s imperative that you back up your original as built data for the APIM, HVAC, and SCCM before starting. For good measure, I made backups of all modules and saved them somewhere. Yes you can download your AB data using Forscan but better safe than sorry.
After installing the SCCM and HVAC you’ll want to write your original AB values to those two modules. Then you’ll have to make modifications to HVAC, SCCM, and APIM in order to enable HSW functionality. The best resource for programming is the BGGD spreadsheet. See below.
Has anyone put a guide together to help me pull this off?
Miscellaneous
Abbreviations
MY = Model Year
HSW = Heated Steering Wheel
SCCM = Steering Column Control Module
HVAC = Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (for purposes of this retrofit, refers to the HVAC control module in the dash)
APIM = Accessory Protocol Interface Module
BGGD = Boosted Grey Goose Designs (https://www.boostedgreygoosedesigns.net/)
FDRS = Ford Diagnostic and Repair System
Ford PTS = Ford Professional Technician Society
PN = Part Number
AB = As-Built
What is my truck actually missing?
Nobody can speak for your specific truck with certainty except for Ford. But there are some observed norms seen by multiple people who have done this retrofit:
- Steering wheel in MY23 Raptors will typically have the heating element. This can be verified after removing the air bag by looking for a particular connector. See photo (screenshot taken from @Andrews video - credit to him)
- Harness is present.
- The clockspring in MY23 Raptors is the part that was on backorder resulting in the feature delete. There are some reports of people ONLY needing the clockspring and being able to swap it into the stock SCCM. However, most of us have found that the SCCM that came in our trucks was missing pins on the back to connect to the HSW harness. It is safest to replace the entire SCCM, unless you first disassemble your steering column and check for the presence/absence of the pins on the back of the SCCM.
- The HVAC installed in MY23 Raptors lacks the HSW button. It also lacks the digital temp readout present on previous MYs. There are two Gen3 compatible HVACs that have a HSW button: one has digital temp readout, the other does not.
What do I need?
Again, I can't speak for everyone's specific truck with certainty, but the following parts list should be sufficient for 100% of people trying to do this retrofit. It's possible you may be able to do it with different/fewer parts, but this list *should* always work.
- SCCM: ML3Z-3F791-BB
- HVAC (with digital readout): ML3Z-19980-K/ML3T-18C612-D
- HVAC (without digital readout): NL3Z-19980-S/NL3T-18C612-TB
- OBDLink EX (or other FORScan compatible OBDLink cable)
- Latest FORScan software with license
- Tools needed for dashboard disassembly
- Tools needed for steering column disassembly (I should note that my steering wheel bolt was actually Torx PLUS TP-50 and not standard Torx T-50. Important to minimize risk of stripping).
- Steering wheel bolt: W721079-S437 (thanks to @Chop96 for the PN). Technically, Ford PTS states that the steering wheel bolt is single use and should be replaced with a new one. However, I had the help of someone with deep knowledge (significantly higher than dealer technician level) and he said reuse is completely fine as long as it is torqued to spec - 46 foot-pounds per PTS).
Also, it should be meantioned that instead of sourcing the SCCM and HVAC separately, you can purchase them together (at a really good price) from BGGD as a bundle. They also include a harness that is not needed in the MY23 Raptor. The HVAC included in this kit is NL3Z-19980-S, without digital readout.
Do I need the HVAC/which HVAC should I buy?
Good question.
The answer to question 1 is, NO, the HVAC is not necessary, but you will have to enable the soft buttons on SYNC using Unreal SYNC theme.
Assuming you want a hardware button: there have been many of us, myself included, that have had issues programming the digital readout HVAC. No such reports with the non-digital readout part. Unfortunately, the non-digital readout HVAC is significantly more expensive. That said, if you want to be sure that there will be no issues getting the HVAC programmed with FORScan, I suggest the non-digital readout HVAC.
I did ultimately get the digital readout HVAC programmed, however, it required access to FDRS and a compatible cable (such as a Mongoose cable). Note that the cable and access to FDRS are not cheap. FDRS was able to reprogram the digital readout HVAC to as-built values, after which I was able to make the necessary modifications with FORScan.
Some people have been able to get the digital readout HVAC to accept programming from FORScan directly (using both versions *.50 and *.51), but this was not my experience, and I believe others had similar issues as well. The reason for the inconsistency isn't totally clear to me, but it may have to do with software version on the HVAC. If you have access to FDRS and a compatible cable, I would say it is extremely likely be able to get the digital readout HVAC working. If not, I'd say it's a bit of a crapshoot.
What about programming?
Programming is done with Forscan. It’s imperative that you back up your original as built data for the APIM, HVAC, and SCCM before starting. For good measure, I made backups of all modules and saved them somewhere. Yes you can download your AB data using Forscan but better safe than sorry.
After installing the SCCM and HVAC you’ll want to write your original AB values to those two modules. Then you’ll have to make modifications to HVAC, SCCM, and APIM in order to enable HSW functionality. The best resource for programming is the BGGD spreadsheet. See below.
Has anyone put a guide together to help me pull this off?
- @Andrews made a video that's extremely helpful. See here: #66
- Another great video from @SuperSafety here. (He also did the interior ambient light retrofit): #221
- If you buy from BGGD, you will get a PDF with step by instructions that is extremely helpful. It is particularly helpful for FORScan programming. I've attached those pages to this post. Not sure they'd be happy with me posting the entire PDF.
- Other users in this thread have done the retrofit successfully and I'm sure would be willing to help - myself included!
- Some tips from @xlover:
- Use a cheap craft felt sheet from Amazon to lay over the console and move around as needed to protect parts from scratching.
- Before disconnecting battery, move seats as far back and down as they go, steering column as far out as it goes, put shifter in down position.
- Consider a second set of hands when replacing steering wheel bolt, hard to simultaneously get leverage on the torque wrench, hold the wrench in place, and stop the steering wheel from rotating.
- Triple check the thigh trim pieces (otherwise called "hockey stick" trim pieces). There are three slots to ensure it sits flush to the dash/hvac panel, ensuring the top slot grabs while lining up the lower ones took a few tries. Mistake here leaves an obvious gap next to the hvac panel.
- Also with regards to the long trim piece that goes the entire length of the dash from the ignition button to the passenger side AC vent, there is a clip that has a tendency to fall out, creating a gap between the trim piece and the "Flag" accent beneath the AC vent. This was identified by @Wichadicha. He also identified a suitable replacement part that you can get from Amazon here. See photo below:
Miscellaneous
Attachments
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Nice write up, very detailed and easy to understand. Good job!!
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