Fuse 27 Just Blew

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MrSkunks

MrSkunks

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Finally got around to doing the kit today. Too me much longer than expected due to the usual delays... missing sockets, dropping bolts, etc.

The biggest pain was getting the fuse box open. This is really what kept me forming doing this right away. I managed to get it open just enough to work on it but it made much harder than it has to be. Once the blue/red wire was cut, I couldn’t get it out far enough to strip it sufficiently, so I didn’t get enough bare copper as id like. I finally got the 2 wires connected, soldered them poorly together, and then began getting the heat shrink over it. Maybe due to how hot it is in Florida or something, it took me like 10 minutes to force the heat shrink over the joint. I didn’t get this as far as I’d like but it was on enough it would do the job. Heated it up and threw some electrical tape on there so I could sleep better at night.

After I got everything back in place, I got back in the truck praying I didn’t pull any wires out trying to pry open the fuse box. I turn to the key on, heat the fuel pump prime, all good... until I go to turn it over. Car instantly dies, no power. At this point I regret ever starting this and can only imagine the damage I caused.

I go back to the engine bay and notice the positive battery terminal wasn’t tight enough. Thankfully that was it and all is well now. I read somewhere that leaving the battery unplugged resets a couple of computers and the car drives better after. Maybe placebo but I feel like the shift points and slow speed shifts are just much smoother.

I wouldn’t say this kit is hard, it’s just a pain getting everything taken apart. Not sure if I was more worried about fuse 27 or now my potentially bad soldering job lol.
 

MFNG

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So I’m stumped. Had the relocation done by the stealership, which may be my first problem, but I had the exact same thing happen to me as when the Fuse 27 issue happened; tries to crank once, won’t then clicks each time after. Sync reset comes on the screen and truck is dead.

@FordTechOne Dealer did mine (assumedly correctly) for me, but I am experiencing the exact same symptoms as the last time.

Checked all the fuses and found no issues. Called for a tow and tried one last crank and it reluctantly started up.

Drove it to the nearest dealership as I am out of town on vacation and figured that was better than picking a random shop.

Only change I can think of that could affect it is I usually always run 91 octane/E0. Since I’m out of town I could only find 93/E10 - this shouldn’t have cause this, right? Any suggestions?

Stuck in the middle of Oklahoma - help!
 

FordTechOne

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So I’m stumped. Had the relocation done by the stealership, which may be my first problem, but I had the exact same thing happen to me as when the Fuse 27 issue happened; tries to crank once, won’t then clicks each time after. Sync reset comes on the screen and truck is dead.

@FordTechOne Dealer did mine (assumedly correctly) for me, but I am experiencing the exact same symptoms as the last time.

Checked all the fuses and found no issues. Called for a tow and tried one last crank and it reluctantly started up.

Drove it to the nearest dealership as I am out of town on vacation and figured that was better than picking a random shop.

Only change I can think of that could affect it is I usually always run 91 octane/E0. Since I’m out of town I could only find 93/E10 - this shouldn’t have cause this, right? Any suggestions?

Stuck in the middle of Oklahoma - help!

If the engine won’t crank, your concern is unrelated to Fuse 27. An issue with F27 will cause the engine to crank without starting, run rough, or stall; it will not cause a no crank. That will be related to the base starting system, which includes the ignition switch, PCM battery, starter, and related circuitry.
 

MFNG

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If the engine won’t crank, your concern is unrelated to Fuse 27. An issue with F27 will cause the engine to crank without starting, run rough, or stall; it will not cause a no crank. That will be related to the base starting system, which includes the ignition switch, PCM battery, starter, and related circuitry.

Thanks for that info. I’ll run those by the dealership if they don’t mention them.

If you have any other recommendations please let us know in case anyone else encounters this as well!
 

tipnring

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Mine went out Saturday. Truck would turn over but no gas. Checked the fuse #27. It was burnt.

IMG_2814.JPG


I had to use needle nose pliers to remove some of it from the fuse block. I found a 10A fuse in slot # 29 (4x4 integrated wheel end solenoid). I used it to get me home.

I ordered the kit EL3Z-14293-A from amazon ($27.79) Saturday evening. It was delivered the next day (Sunday). I followed the YouTube video & it's charged out now.



IMG_2810.JPG

As info, I tried to get my Ford dealer to replace it about a year ago. I showed them the TSB. They said that they couldn't do anything unless it actually blew out.
 
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CoronaRaptor

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Mine went out Saturday. Truck would turn over but no gas. Checked the fuse #27. It was burnt.

View attachment 337487

I had to use needle nose pliers to remove some of it from the fuse block. I found a 10A fuse in slot # 29 (4x4 integrated wheel end solenoid). I used it to get me home.

I ordered the kit EL3Z-14293-A from amazon Saturday evening. It was delivered the next day (Sunday). I followed the YouTube video & it's charged out now.

View attachment 337488

As info, I tried to get my Ford dealer to replace it about a year ago. I showed them the TSB. They said that they couldn't do anything unless it actually blew out.
Just curious, what year yours is? Also, what is wrong with your dealer, so many owners have had the dealers do the kit, lol.
 

tipnring

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Mine is a 2013 SCAB with 45K miles.
My dealer (Auto Nation Ford Jacksonville) has been good in the past but I am disappointed that they wouldn't fix it since I still have the Ford Extended warranty.
 
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