I would be to do it myself. I would definitely ask the vinyl shop or the "stealership" what products are safe with their decals. The big thing is to have a PERFECTLY clean surface to start with. The following are steps you need to follow.
1) Wash the truck and wet the surrounding area/floor down to get the dirt and grim off the truck, and to keep the dust from being kicked up.
2) Do not dry the truck (helps attracts and traps floating dusts)
3) CLAY BAR the hood or sides of the truck (removes all the embedded surface contaminant). I would go one step further as to Iron X the surface as part of my prep.
4) Then comes an
important step.... Put some nitrile gloves (and keep them for the remainder of the process) and use IPA solution or CP Eraser to prep the surface (please use clean soft microfiber towels at this stage)
5) Use 3M painter's tape to mark specific landmarks outside the area you will put the decal on (as a reference marker to take measurements from and to line up your work). This is
CRITICAL to make perfect if you want that decal to look perfect! You can redo this part until you have ABSOLUTE PERFECTION!. (I use a mm based tape measure and go OCD big time!)
DO NOT depend on taking measurements off the plastic stuff. Put the 3M Painter's tape down and measure the hood and mark center (top and bottom) and take all remaining measurements from there. To get a straight tape line for future measurements tack one side down and stretch it tight and apply it down. Again you can apply and reapply as many time as you want to make it PERFECT (and be careful with paint because you have nothing protecting it at this stage)
6) After all your tape is down, another IPA or Eraser wipedown won't hurt.
7) The next
important step is to CLEAN your decal to kill the static electricity cling and to remove oily residues etc..
****Then you are ready to apply your decal.*****
8) LIBERALLY spray the "recommended decal lube" for your application
9) Align and measure, and align and measure, and align and measure off your tape lines. At this stage you and make as much changes as you want.
10) Using a 3M squeegee (always use the right tools), start from the center and squeeze all the lube and air bubbles from the decal. Make sure your squeegee is new and clean otherwise it may introduce scratches in your decal or on your paint as you get to the edge of the decal
11) Most vinyl shop recommend that you use a heat gun or good hair dryer and heat up the decal to help the adhesion process.
12) I am not sure if it is the general recommendation but I wait at least 12 hrs and then put the paint sealant/glaze/wax (which ever you chose) back on the truck and treat the decal no different than the painted surface (but don't use a cheap OTC product that turns white... get the good stuff).
Moral of the story:
1) Prep is KEY
2) Use the right tools
3) Be proud of your accomplishments
P.S. Let me add that an extra pair of hands or 2 is VERY important!! (as it was pointed out in an earlier post)
P.P.S. I will reinforce the prior post on staying away from AMMONIA at all cost. And please do yourself a favor and avoid cross contamination by using a quasi clean old windex bottle. Spend the money and get a brand new bottle for cleaning, and for your lube.
