Death Valley Presidents Weekend 2011 (Saline & Eureka Valleys)

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MagicMtnDan

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I was invited by friends to go on what has become an annual Death Valley trip. The group had the usual collection of Jeeps (TJ Rubicon, a couple Cherokees), Bronco, Landcruiser, Nissan Exterra, M-B Gwagen, a Chevy Tahoe, and one lone Raptor.

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As with most trips, it was an adventure. We had great company, really nice weather (no rain), offroading/exploring delicious food and enjoyable campfire conversations.

Friday night (2/18) we camped out in the open (the storm brought a lot of wind but no rain) Friday night on Big Four Mine Road just below the canyon leading to Big Four Mine.

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Saturday morning (2/19) we drove up the canyon as far as possible into some technical areas and the group managed to get some pent-up desire to stack rocks out of our systems. We left that afternoon and headed through South Pass into Saline Valley on Saline Valley Road where we camped at the Lower Warm Springs.

The Springs is a very different kind of place that attracts many characters. (From Wikipedia: The Saline Valley Warm Springs, as they are called, have become controversial in recent years. The improvements would have violated Park Service policy if they had taken place today, and nudity is against park regulations. There has been compromise so far; a park host is always on duty, visitors are limited to 30 days per year, and the springs do not appear on any official NPS map. A "clothing optional" policy is still permitted at the springs, but nudity is frowned upon elsewhere at the site).

Sunday morning (2/20) we started our drive to the north headed towards Steel Pass. The Chevy Tahoe had a mechanical so it was decided to leave it alongside the trail. On the way north we looked for, located and visited Berman Cabin (where the Bermans were found dead). http://www.deathvalley.com/dvtalkarc3/messages/2832.shtml

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We continued on, climbing out to the north up and over Steel Pass, through Dedeckera Canyon (where, with some excellent spotting help from Justin, we managed to squeeze the Raptor through the rock waterfalls and squeezes in Dedeckera Canyon) and down into Eureka Valley.

We stopped at the Eureka Dunes where we had lunch and said goodbye to several in our group when they left for their homes in NorCal. We continued on (taking a route different than originally planned) going towards Big Pine then heading over North Pass (well over 7000 feet) where we motored through some fresh snow from the recent storm (about 18" deep in some places). We encountered five off road motorcyclists who were separated from each other each one struggling to get their bikes down the mountain. It was 24 degrees and the temperature was falling and one had already left his bike behind with a clutch problem. One of our group told them they couldn't spend the night on the mountain (they were in bike gear but had nothing else). It didn’t take much to get them to agree to leave their bikes up on the mountain so we found seats for three of them and the other two rode down the mountain sitting on top of the lifted Cherokee's roof rack! We got them back to their campsite at Lower Warm Springs where we camped again (Sat & Sun nights).

Monday morning (2/21), Presidents Day, several in our group worked on the Chevy Tahoe which sounded like it was having fuel delivery issues. The problem couldn’t be determined so no repair was made so the Tahoe idled out of the Springs and on Saline Valley Road at very slow speed. The Tahoe only made it a couple-three miles out of the Springs so the Tahoe had to be towed (about 15MPH max). A couple of us were urged to leave as they had four vehicles and enough people to deal with the Tahoe slow tow, so we left and headed for home back down Saline Valley Road going up and over South Pass. On the way up the summit there were some shaded areas where the snow was packed into ice that were troublesome for others and I wondered how the others would be able to tow the heavy Tahoe up and over the South Pass.

(I'll add more pics and there's a story about the Tahoe tow team which I can post later).
 

BigJ

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Fantastic! I know you're a guest in this group, and I know group size can be an issue, but did you ever feel them out about other Raptors joining? Do you think this is something 'we' could replicate on our own?
 
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MagicMtnDan

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Fantastic! I know you're a guest in this group, and I know group size can be an issue, but did you ever feel them out about other Raptors joining? Do you think this is something 'we' could replicate on our own?

Good questions Jason, thanks. Yes, I can invite a small number of others depending on the total number of vehicles participating. Those that would be invited would need to be "good guests" in that they would need to enjoy four wheeling (as opposed to higher speed Raptor-ing) with a group, participate in the group experience, and be willing to take their Raptor on more challenging and technical terrain (like Dedeckera Canyon which I barely [barely!] made it through). Another example: When the group drove up the canyon towards Big Four Mine on Saturday morning it was very much a slow speed rock crawl but since there was no way out the vehicles ultimately came back the same way so it was an optional section of the trip. The Tahoe was left back at camp, I went as far as I could without pushing it hard and I walked up to watch the others try to conquer more challenging terrain. These trips are treated as explorations by friends (and there are always some new folks) - the camping experience is enjoyed and rarely is there an urgency to leaving early in the AM unless the day's travel plans are extensive.

I always check with them to ensure my Raptor will make it through the trails and I've opted not to go on some trips because the Raptor simply is too wide (i.e. Dusy / Ershim Trail trip last year). And I do ask if I can invite others. If you (and anyone else) are seriously interested I will invite you if/when space is available and I expect that there will be room for at least one or two Raptors in addition to mine.

And the answer is, "yes" in regard to can we duplicate this trip. We certainly can and I would be happy to do/organize it assuming there's interest and time (DV is usually a 3 day trip especially considering the drives to and from). We had people from Tahoe area, San Jose and all the way down to San Diego (there was a story that some folks from Iowa were coming out for this trip but they didn't get there in time).

One other note - on these types of trips people need to come prepared. This time of year and in DV, hot and cold weather, wind, rain, snow, ice (chains would've been a good idea) require having the appropriate gear for camping, safety, towing, trail/emergency repairs, airing up/down (optional but sometimes necessary), first aid, lots of water, firewood, food, etc., etc.

There is a trip to Baja (this June) that I'd like to go (need to see a Baja race at least once) - I've passed on it in previous years. It's a small group that goes and some don't take their vehicles as they ride with others. It's that kind of trip. If there's interest in that we'll see how things go as we get closer to June.
 

MarkT

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looks like a great trip! thanks for the pics and the story... can't wait to hear the rest!
 
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MagicMtnDan

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Here's the route we took into out of back into and out of Saline Valley...

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Dennis' TJ Rubicon (nice rig)

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Blair's Cherokee (note roof rack which will later bring two offroad motorcyclists down from North Pass) and the guys stacking rocks

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Justin's Exterra - very capable ride on and offroad

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Tom's Gwagen

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At Saline Warm Springs campsite

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Morning sun shining on newly powdered mountains

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Sun rising in the East

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MagicMtnDan

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The Springs where the soakers hang out (literally)

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If you look closely you might see some of the soakers

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Morning Sadie

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Berman Cabin

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Look, a wall calendar!

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Someone brought the calendar from Iowa (2009)

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Complete with outhouse

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MagicMtnDan

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The guys working on the Tahoe

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More of the story as told by those who stayed/towed the Tahoe...


We towed the Tahoe from the Springs to Lone Pine, a distance of approximately 100 miles. We were able to maintain 10-15mph on the valley floor but that speed dropped off once we started climbing toward South Pass. By the time we reached the Lippencott intersection I had the Cherokee in low range, both axles locked and working between 2nd and 3rd (low range) gears. 4-7 mph generally. The Tahoe is heavy and I could not get it started moving on the uphill in any higher gear. The Cherokee did ok, did not overheat, but it was working very hard to pull the Tahoe uphill.

An added bit of excitement was that my low-fuel dummy light came on even before reaching Lippencott. The jeep burned over 1/2 tank of fuel from the springs to Lippencott! Another Jeep was also running low. The group decided the best plan was to pour the last two gallons from the last fuel can into the red Cherokee Jeep and send him on ahead to Olancha with a couple cans to purchase more fuel and then return.

When I heard the Tahoe fire up on Mon AM, I knew it wasn't going to be drivable out of the valley. It would idle, but the slightest application of throttle would cause it to stall. He did try to drive it, at first, but didn't get very far (a mile or two). That was my expectation. I was always pretty sure it was going to have to be towed.

My main concern, even before we left camp, was the steep upper sections of Grapevine Canyon on the South Pass route. I was reasonably confident that if we went slow enough we could tow the Tahoe across the valley floor. But the climb to South Pass is nearly 5000' of vertical gain and the upper sections are particularly steep. And also iced-up from recent snowfall.

In first and second gear (low) we dragged the Tahoe up from Lippencott to within a couple miles of the top of Steel Pass. Above us, in the last two switchbacks, was the steep icy section. It was about 230pm and the upper switchbacks were already in the shade. At this point there was a fullsize Dodge pickup behind us so at the last corner I swung wide to allow him to pass on the inside. The Dodge driver, Todd, stopped and asked if we wanted him to drag the Tahoe to the top with his big truck. After thinking about it for a minute we took him up on his offer, figuring a Dodge diesel would be better suited for the last steep pulls than my Cherokee. We hooked the strap to the Dodge and off Todd went. Following a few hundred yards behind, I rounded the next corner to see the Tahoe (on the strap) and the Dodge sliding backwards back down the ice.

That was probably the scare of the day for the Tahoe owner. And made me realize that we were screwed now, because I was definitely not going to be able to tow the Tahoe up that ice. What was the next plan? We were parked on a slight pull out which, thanks to the sun, was not icy. We could let the Tahoe slide back down past us and get in front of him. Although that would be scary, I didn't think he'd slide backwards off the edge down into the canyon because if he could just keep the vehicle on the road for the first hundred yards of semi-controlled-slide he'd eventually get to the sunny spot where he should be able to brake to a stop on the dirt. Then, once we were above, we could anchor the Jeeps and winch the Tahoe up the ice. That too would be scary since a cable failure could well mean the Tahoe would slide backwards off the edge. And I didn't know if our winch cables would be long enough.

But, Todd to the rescue as he dug through the enormous pile of stuff in the back of his Dodge and pulled out some tire chains. After a few minutes to install the chains, on the next attempt the Dodge pulled the Tahoe up to the summit. From there we said adieu to Todd and, because my low-fuel dummy light had now been on for hours and we towed the Tahoe down to Hwy 190 heading on the pavement towards Olancha/Lone Pine. As we were descending the far side, above Owens Lake, we encountered the red Cherokee Jeep coming back. He was surprised to see us, certain (correctly) we would not have been able to tow the Tahoe up the ice in Grapevine Canyon.

We all pulled off the side of the hwy, quickly aired up and dumped some gas. Quickly because it was still 5500' elevation and a very cold wind. We opted to try to coast the Tahoe down towards Lone Pine. At first this worked well because the grade was quite steep, but when the grade lessened the coast slowed to 20mph and we went back to the strap. The last 20 miles to Lone Pine was accomplished with my jeep towing, 40-50mph, with the red Cherokee bringing up the rear, 4-way flashers on.

We reached Lone Pine a few minutes before 5pm. We went to Millers Towing but they were just closing up and the guy who was there had (as they always have in my experience dealing with Miller's) a non-helpful attitude. He did say we could bring the Tahoe by the next day and they'd take a look at it, but his general attitude was "you're a dip**** tourist and got no other options and its 5pm and I'm done for the day so f**k off". Or maybe he just wasn't an overly friendly guy and I read too much between the lines because this is ALWAYS the Miller's attitude from my perspective.

We dragged the Tahoe off to the north end of town, to the NAPA, which was closed. We called AAA and they said that they would tow the Tahoe to Independence. But, wait a minute, that is NORTH, WTF? Evidently his AAA plan didn't cover a tow of the length necessary to get to any place south.

At the Mobil station on the corner we chatted up the young girl behind the counter, and a couple of local patrons, and was informed that there was a second auto repair place on Post St, behind the Pizza Factory, and that the mechanics were probably still there (it was now close to 6pm). We drove around the back streets of Lone Pine (think town on the Navajo Rez meets Tijuana side street) until we found it. Junk cars everywhere, big wooden door, looks a little seedy. But the lights were on inside and the padlock on the door was unhinged. So we shouted and a guy came out and said that he was in the paint booth but that the mechanic went for gas and would return soon, so drag the Tahoe around back and wait. The shop had several interesting cars undergoing restoration (including an Avanti) but it was hardly a clean well-kept place.

Eventually the mechanic, Ramon, shows up. Kid, maybe in his early 20s. He earnestly tries to think of what might be the problem and appears to want to help, but eventually we all recognize we don't have parts and the time's up too. Tomorrow. The Tahoe gets locked in the yard and the two guys go get a motel room. I departed about 645pm for points north.

The drive north was uneventful but very cold! The heater in the jeep couldn't keep up and I was shivering. The jeep heater is usually pretty good and I didn't understand until I saw the temp in Bridgeport: minus 10. Many slow grinds up mountain passes later, I arrived home a little after midnight.

Got this info about 1030 Tuesday morning. Mechanic thought fuel delivery seemed ok. He thought the problem was bad MAF sensor output. At last word, a new MAF was being sent down from Bishop, to arrive by 2pm.
 

BigJ

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Woooow. What a story.

Thanks for sharing Dan! I dunno that my ballz are big enough to handle sliding backwards down a hill like that..
 
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