I wouldn't accept that truck if I had ordered it. I'm. It a believer of a hard break in. I like to ***** foot and not load the motor, fluctuate rpm's, and get some heat cycles to make sure the rings seat properly. I've been racing motocross most of my life and after I rebuild my motor and properly break it in it last ls much longer than my buds who don't follow my procedure.
Nothing will seat rings better than maximum cylinder pressure.
Now, it greatly depends on the ring material as to how sensitive it is to (a lack of) cylinder pressure- a moly ring will break in *much* easier than stainless ring. I assume Ford used a moly coated ring, as you likely did in your motorcycle engines- so its probably a moot point for those engines.
In my opinion, even with moly coated top rings, you are still better off to give it a few runs up to redline at WOT right off the bat with a short cool down periods in between. You can work your way up in the amount of throttle and RPMs if it makes you feel better.
There are limits to how 'abusive' you should be. You should not just flog a new engine non-stop, as you could overheat the oil locally and the oil could potentially glaze the cylinder wall cross hatching.
A max effort boosted gas engine using ductile iron top rings, or even more critically- stainless top rings, definitely needs to see max cylinder pressures ASAP. Doing an easy "break-in" with the stainless rings will result in an engine that consumes a lot of oil.
Notice I've only been talking about the top rings. The lower oil control rings also need pressure to seat and you'll never get and real pressure on those either by babying it.
