Coolant + temps questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Pinned

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Posts
70
Reaction score
75
Location
LA
Having an issue with my truck and the temps at the moment. Bone stock, 60k miles. I am religious about maintenance. Just had the coolant flushed at the dealer and embarked on a 700mi drive today.

Nearing mile 600 and going uphill I saw, for the first time ever, a temperature notation above the temp gauge. It quickly flashed 230, climbed up to 236 in about 5 seconds - I immediately let off the gas and pulled over. It dropped back down and the numbers disappeared in about 10 seconds. Ambient temp at the time was about 55F. Ambient temps ranged between 25F and 60F on the drive, but warmer towards the end of the drive.

I popped the hood and the coolant expansion tank was a bit above the "MAX" mark. Seemingly normal as the truck is hot. I continued driving and ~10 minutes later at a much lower load the temp flashed again to 236 and then back down quickly as I let off the throttle. Luckily that was all of the climbing and the rest of the drive was downhill. I drove back with a very light foot and out of the boost. Though I did accelerate from 65-80mph on flat to see what would happen and got the temp to flash 230 before dropping back down almost instantly.

I did this exact drive last week in the opposite direction before the coolant flush - during that drive I was traveling a higher average speed and it's got more elevation gain with no issues. I've never seen the temp numbers flash before including on this same drive and over much higher / longer mountain passes at higher speeds in much higher ambient temps. This drive is not out of the norm for me. I've never had the coolant temp numbers flash on this truck or any of my previous ecoboost trucks.

So anyways, something is wrong. I am thinking there is either air in the system or the coolant mix is incorrect. The dealer paperwork states that they added antifreeze (noted as VC13G and about $20 worth) and coolant conditioner (ZXC05 and about $50 worth). The coolant appears to be the correct orange color.

Questions:
1. Does the above seem correct? I've never added coolant conditioner to any vehicle I've ever owned, and would generally need more than $20 worth of antifreeze at dealer prices.
2. What is the coolant mix supposed to be in these trucks? Every vehicle I've owned has been 50:50 which translates into roughly a -30F freezing point as read on a refractometer. I'll measure the freezing point tomorrow but just want to be sure I know what number I'm looking for.
3. What is the average operating temp range supposed to be on these trucks?
4. Is it possible to get the temp to always be displayed numerically above the gauge? Would be helpful to see where it's operating normally.

Thanks for any help or guidance. If anyone has the FSM procedure for coolant swap + the mix / concentration that would be incredibly helpful.
 
OP
OP
P

Pinned

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Posts
70
Reaction score
75
Location
LA
Just spitballing, but maybe a bad thermostat?
Possibly - is there any way to test this out?

Would there be any reason the dealer would have removed / reinstalled the thermostat as part of the coolant flush? That seems unlikely but stranger things have happened.
 
OP
OP
P

Pinned

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Posts
70
Reaction score
75
Location
LA
The truck is under warranty, so I'm not swapping out anything at my own cost and not really willing to give them any reason to deny a warranty claim. The double edged sword of warranty I guess.

Was able to replicate the temp warning this morning on a flat highway with a moderate pull after only ~10min of running time. So it's not a heat soak issue or something like that.

I suspect there is air in the system as there was quite a bit of release when opening the expansion cap while the engine was warm (not hot though, obviously). The coolant is over full so I've removed some and will follow the process @FordTechOne outlined HERE in steps 4-16 to try to get any additional air out of the system.

Waiting on a proper refractometer to arrive tomorrow to test the coolant but I did pick up one of those Prestone Coolant testers and it's looking like a 60%+ coolant concentration which is definitely too high. So if the refractometer shows the same dilution I'll see about having the coolant swapped out for the proper 50:50 fill.
 

FordTechOne

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Posts
6,644
Reaction score
13,009
Location
Detroit
The truck is under warranty, so I'm not swapping out anything at my own cost and not really willing to give them any reason to deny a warranty claim. The double edged sword of warranty I guess.

Was able to replicate the temp warning this morning on a flat highway with a moderate pull after only ~10min of running time. So it's not a heat soak issue or something like that.

I suspect there is air in the system as there was quite a bit of release when opening the expansion cap while the engine was warm (not hot though, obviously). The coolant is over full so I've removed some and will follow the process @FordTechOne outlined HERE in steps 4-16 to try to get any additional air out of the system.

Waiting on a proper refractometer to arrive tomorrow to test the coolant but I did pick up one of those Prestone Coolant testers and it's looking like a 60%+ coolant concentration which is definitely too high. So if the refractometer shows the same dilution I'll see about having the coolant swapped out for the proper 50:50 fill.
Most coolant flush procedures require removing the thermostat. For some reason these thermostats have a tendency to stick partially closed once exposed to open air and then re-installed. If the bleed procedure doesn’t correct it, I would start there

Also, cooling systems do not need to be flushed unless there is contamination. Otherwise, the coolant just needs to be exchanged at the interval specified in the Owner’s Manual.
 
OP
OP
P

Pinned

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Posts
70
Reaction score
75
Location
LA
Most coolant flush procedures require removing the thermostat. For some reason these thermostats have a tendency to stick partially closed once exposed to open air and then re-installed. If the bleed procedure doesn’t correct it, I would start there

Also, cooling systems do not need to be flushed unless there is contamination. Otherwise, the coolant just needs to be exchanged at the interval specified in the Owner’s Manual.
I've asked the dealer that did the work to please outline exactly what their procedure was. They called it a flush, though I am not sure if they actually did that or just exchanged the coolant - the invoice isn't specific.

However, the high concentration / incorrect dilution of coolant would definitely be a problem as well.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
P

Pinned

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Posts
70
Reaction score
75
Location
LA
Just an update to anyone reading this - replaced the thermostat and got the coolant back down to a 50:50 mix. So far so good.

Some little tips:
-Most of the videos I see show a metal thermostat cover, but the Raptor cover is black plastic.
-If you have an electric ratchet it will make the removal / reinstallation of the bolt at the 4:00 position much easier to remove.
-Otherwise, a 1/4" ratchet and a deep well 8mm socket will work (or a standard 8mm + a short extension). A 3/8" ratchet won't fit well regardless of combination of extensions / adapters IMO.
 
Top