Auto armor undercoating??

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thatJeepguy

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I’m a bit of an undercoating Afficionado so I looked up the product mentioned. My biggest detail when dealing with undercoating is the material itself. Any rubberized under coding is a thing of the past. They trapped moisture in places where it would normally drain and thus create more of a rusting issue. It appears that auto armor is a petroleum-based product which means it will work very well and not trap moisture. However it seems to be a longer lasting durability type coating. This means it doesn’t play well with any dirt oil or contaminants that will be on the surface of the metal. This probably won’t be a big deal for a new truck. But just now will wax fluid film and surface blaster all can be applied at your house in your garage relatively inexpensive. And those products work regardless of contaminate level on the undercarriage.
 
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RaptorBaby23

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I’m a bit of an undercoating Afficionado so I looked up the product mentioned. My biggest detail when dealing with undercoating is the material itself. Any rubberized under coding is a thing of the past. They trapped moisture in places where it would normally drain and thus create more of a rusting issue. It appears that auto armor is a petroleum-based product which means it will work very well and not trap moisture. However it seems to be a longer lasting durability type coating. This means it doesn’t play well with any dirt oil or contaminants that will be on the surface of the metal. This probably won’t be a big deal for a new truck. But just now will wax fluid film and surface blaster all can be applied at your house in your garage relatively inexpensive. And those products work regardless of contaminate level on the undercarriage.
Thank you for the info. I don’t have a garage unfortunately so it’ll be hard for me to apply something myself. You think it’ll work good if the truck is brand new?
 

thatJeepguy

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Thank you for the info. I don’t have a garage unfortunately so it’ll be hard for me to apply something myself. You think it’ll work good if the truck is brand new?
I do. If you live in the north i do t think any truck should go without undercoating with all the salt they currently put on the roads now . ESPECIALLY the brine. That being said, i think it is a somewhat waxy based product that is self healing which is a product that linex is running now. It has decent reviews. And with the fogging of the inside of the frame amd doors it makes for a package where you’ll likely get rid of that truck before it rusts. The only thing i dont like about it is -
Wool wax and blaster wear off almost every year so you can re-apply and handle water displacement more frequently as opposed to one time for a duration of 5-10 years.
 

dsiggi

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I ,like @thatJeepguy ,am a bit also of a corrosion protection affcianado. I've lived in the rust belt (southeast Michigan) my entire life.

His advice is sound. Ive built a process where i use multiple products depending on the application. I prefer a cosmoline based material (started with MavCoat, but discontinued, sno now use CRC) on all underbody components and then a fluid film or corrosion x inside frame , corrosion x inside doors (wont f up your seas like fluid film will).

Im going on Winter 8 and my frame and welds are super clean. You wouldn't know it was a Michigan truck. The aluminum has been fantastic as well.
 
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RaptorBaby23

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I do. If you live in the north i do t think any truck should go without undercoating with all the salt they currently put on the roads now . ESPECIALLY the brine. That being said, i think it is a somewhat waxy based product that is self healing which is a product that linex is running now. It has decent reviews. And with the fogging of the inside of the frame amd doors it makes for a package where you’ll likely get rid of that truck before it rusts. The only thing i dont like about it is -
Wool wax and blaster wear off almost every year so you can re-apply and handle water displacement more frequently as opposed to one time for a duration of 5-10 years.
What don’t you like about it? My dealer just told me it’s water based and they aren’t sure if it self heals. Now I’m unsure of what to do!!!
 

thatJeepguy

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What don’t you like about it? My dealer just told me it’s water based and they aren’t sure if it self heals. Now I’m unsure of what to do!!!
Water based ??? Uhhh the good treatments I am referencing are lanolin based augmented with hydrocarbons to displace and seal out water/oxygen while still being semi-permeable .

I almost payed linex over 1 k to do mine then i learned that i just needed a spray gun and material and its like minimal investment once every october.

The thing i didnt like about the more durable paraffin base is that perhaps it can actually trap moisture if yr not careful. Also its not good inside frame rails which fluid film and wool wax/ Surface blaster r phenomenal inside frame rails because they creep into hard to reach areas with 360 wand. If u read the fine print with auto armor they have to “fog” the hard to reach areas because the heavy paraffin based stuff they apply to the rest does not creep and infact can actually plug small holes…And perhaps not allow water or condensation to drain. That is why I'm against it.
 
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EricM

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Don't drive it in the salt if you don't want rust. Winter beaters are the only way. Drive the beater when the salt is out. When the rain comes through and cleans the salt away, drive the truck again.

The salt will get in places you cannot coat, and eat things you'd never think it could.

I'm done sacrificing nice paid for 4WD trucks to the winter weather.
 

MDJAK

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I've been "sacrificing" nice paid for cars and trucks to east coast winters for about 5 decades and have never had an issue with rust doing damage to anything. It's all a money grab for the Let me worry about this now crowd.
 
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