Anyone got a write up for fox 3.0 coil over installation?

[Huck]

Will be doing this soon. Is there a higher location to mount the reservoir with the supplied bracket? Don't care much for it to hang below the frame.

There’s really no other mounting spot unless you get longer hoses or weld something to the frame.

I have mine in for 50k miles and lots of Offroad with no issues


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[bigrig]

Dang! I thought I was **** on keeping things clean, but I think you have me beat. Outstanding write up. What did you use to torque the lower bolt?

When I did this installation, I used a torque multiplier to get that lower bolt to the proper torque. Shopping around you should be able to find one for around $200 (though the prices can go up as high as $3K). I cheaped out and got the one listed here for about $80. So far it has worked well for my needs for a couple years. I wouldn't hesitate recommending this one to someone who was just trying out this tool for the first time. When I need to replace this one (whenever that happens) I think I will probably go with this one from Neiko. It looks a little better built, though it doesn't have the replaceable drive piece option that the Ratchet Helper offers.

I have found it a valuable tool to have around for many things. I most recently used it to help a friend install his RPG trophy bumper which mount to the steering rack bolts. It is also great to use on stuck lug nuts when a breaker bar doesn't work.

Will be doing this soon. Is there a higher location to mount the reservoir with the supplied bracket? Don't care much for it to hang below the frame.

I felt the same way. I was planning on fabricating something that would raise it up a bit. If I create something worth showing off, I will post pics of it.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

@bigrig
How does that torque multiplier work? You use a normal torque wrench on it and set it to 81lb? 81x5=405

 

[LXCoupe]

Good write up sj-CHI. I was very hesitant replacing my stock shocks with rebuilt 2.5's, because I had a bad experience doing 2.0's on my FX4. Turns out, the Raptor is by far the easiest vehicle I've ever replaced coilovers on. I think it's due to the length of the lower control arm and how far out the shock mounts. I ran into one problem though, the upper balljoint nut was rusted on and I had to cut it off. When torquing down the lower shock bolt; just hit it with your impact the best you can and then limp it an alignment shop and get them to double check the torque.

The rears are a breeze. I used a ratchet strap to compress the shock to line it up with the eyelets on the lower mount.

I recommend getting a new front lower shock bolt/nut. I hear the bolt tends to stretch when torqued to 406ft/lbs and it's always a good idea to replace the nylon nut too. Forged Offroad has come up with an oem replacement that eliminates possible clunking.

I also recommend while your there to add lower control arm cam brackets. F150's can possibly loose camber adjustment when offroading and the brackets help keep it locked in better.

Raptor Front Lower Shock Replacement Bolt – Forged Offroad – We Rebuild Shocks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039K0L8E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[bigrig]

@bigrig
How does that torque multiplier work? You use a normal torque wrench on it and set it to 81lb? 81x5=405

Yep, that is exactly how it works.

You let the bar that comes off it bind against the floor or some other immovable object when torquing the bolt. I found that I needed to put a cut piece of square tube over the bar that comes off the torque multiplier to provide some reinforcement when torquing things down above 325 ft/lbs.

Here are some photos to give you a better picture of how it goes together and how I set it up.

 

[Canuck714]

Good write up sj-CHI. I was very hesitant replacing my stock shocks with rebuilt 2.5's, because I had a bad experience doing 2.0's on my FX4. Turns out, the Raptor is by far the easiest vehicle I've ever replaced coilovers on. I think it's due to the length of the lower control arm and how far out the shock mounts. I ran into one problem though, the upper balljoint nut was rusted on and I had to cut it off. When torquing down the lower shock bolt; just hit it with your impact the best you can and then limp it an alignment shop and get them to double check the torque.

The rears are a breeze. I used a ratchet strap to compress the shock to line it up with the eyelets on the lower mount.

I recommend getting a new front lower shock bolt/nut. I hear the bolt tends to stretch when torqued to 406ft/lbs and it's always a good idea to replace the nylon nut too. Forged Offroad has come up with an oem replacement that eliminates possible clunking.

I also recommend while your there to add lower control arm cam brackets. F150's can possibly loose camber adjustment when offroading and the brackets help keep it locked in better.

Raptor Front Lower Shock Replacement Bolt – Forged Offroad – We Rebuild Shocks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039K0L8E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The lower shock bolt needs to be replaced.. The high torque value is intended to stretch the bolt. Its a 1 time use bolt... meaning once it has been stretched it is done and cannot be properly re-stretched to 400ft/lbs. Yes you can re-install and probably get your torque wrench to click off at 406, but the bolt is no longer within its strength specs. Your better off replacing with the longer shank bolt from Forged.

 

[bigrig]

The lower shock bolt needs to be replaced.. The high torque value is intended to stretch the bolt. Its a 1 time use bolt... meaning once it has been stretched it is done and cannot be properly re-stretched to 400ft/lbs. Yes you can re-install and probably get your torque wrench to click off at 406, but the bolt is no longer within its strength specs. Your better off replacing with the longer shank bolt from Forged.

It is true that the LCA bolt and nut are supposed to be replaced, the service manual says:

"Remove the shock absorber lower nut, bolt and the lower arm. Discard the shock absorber lower nut and bolt."

The part numbers for the bolt and nut are:
Bolt: W709877
Nut: W711310 (discontinued)

The bolts from Forged do look appealing with their longer shank but are on the pricey side when compared with the OEM alternative.

@m3dragon, do you think you could hook us up on a group buy for sets of these bolts? I do like the idea of upgrading to a bolt with a longer shank.

 

[m3dragon]

It is true that the LCA bolt and nut are supposed to be replaced, the service manual says:

"Remove the shock absorber lower nut, bolt and the lower arm. Discard the shock absorber lower nut and bolt."

The part numbers for the bolt and nut are:
Bolt: W709877
Nut: W711310 (discontinued)

The bolts from Forged do look appealing with their longer shank but are on the pricey side when compared with the OEM alternative.

@m3dragon, do you think you could hook us up on a group buy for sets of these bolts? I do like the idea of upgrading to a bolt with a longer shank.

The bolt can be reused, the nylock is why they say to change it. However reusing them so far has not shown any issues.

The longer bolts has a longer shank where the strength is. Some stores actually carry a grade 8 bolt you could use. I don't have any association with forged so I would reach out to them.

 

[bigrig]

I don't have any association with forged so I would reach out to them.

Sorry m3 I thought ROC turned into Forged. My mistake!

---------- Post added at 08:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 AM ----------

There’s really no other mounting spot unless you get longer hoses or weld something to the frame.

Respectfully, I am not sure I agree that it cannot be mounted elsewhere, I think a bracket could be made which would move the reservoir with its existing hose up and forward a little bit. I might be wrong, so if it doesn't work out, I will post pics of my fail, otherwise I will post pics of the new bracket.

I have mine in for 50k miles and lots of Offroad with no issues

Totally understand, I am not saying this is something that must be done. I am just saying I don't prefer where the reservoir currently is positioned and I need a project to keep me busy over the Thanksgiving holiday.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

Yep, that is exactly how it works.

You let the bar that comes off it bind against the floor or some other immovable object when torquing the bolt. I found that I needed to put a cut piece of square tube over the bar that comes off the torque multiplier to provide some reinforcement when torquing things down above 325 ft/lbs.

I ended up getting that same tool and just arrived today along with the replacement bolt and nut from Tasca Parts.

I found their website and it seems they really sell this more so to take off nuts vs. using it to multiple torque.

https://www.cheaterbarsales.com/how-to-use/

This statement concerns me, 20% is quite a bit.
"Because of friction in the gearbox, torque measurements could be off as much as (±20%) when using The Ratchet Helper. We recommend that you don’t use the Ratchet Helper for final torquing of a bolt or nut."