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GEN 2 (2017-2020) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
2017 Suspension Refresh Kit
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<blockquote data-quote="Badgertits" data-source="post: 2092368" data-attributes="member: 31322"><p>Again- On a different vehicle my C5Z- the bushings for the upper/lower control arms where they attach to the frame are injection molded rubber of some sort (not sure on raptor would have to check) & can’t really be pressed out cleanly but they’re also tucked in tight to the body & on a car like a vette that sees no salt/snow limited rain & sits indoors a lot there’s not a lot of reason for those bushings to degrade- they were/are still quite supple so I left em in place & instead media blasted the arms & gave em a black epoxy coating, pressed in new moog greaseable ball joints, replaced front/rear sway bars + bushing + end links, the inner/outer tie rods/toe links all 4 corners, the steering rack, the wheel bearings, the steering rack bushing (yep), the motor mounts (poly), swapped the thin stamped steel tunnel plate for a thick billet aluminum one etc etc etc </p><p></p><p>You could go to similar lengths w/ a Raptor but it ain’t a collector car (unless you want it to be I guess) & isn’t old enough to have all the aftermarket part options I’m guessing (maybe wrong)</p><p></p><p>I don’t think you need to tho- I think the front top hats/shock buckets or whatever you call em could be replaced, the shocks, the leafs, the coil springs, the tie rods, the swaybar bushings/links, & IF the a-arm bushings look ok & IF you can source correct sized ball joints doing that instead of replacing A-arms would save $$$$….but there are also better aftermarket control arms available too</p><p></p><p>It just depends on how “nuts” you wanna get</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Badgertits, post: 2092368, member: 31322"] Again- On a different vehicle my C5Z- the bushings for the upper/lower control arms where they attach to the frame are injection molded rubber of some sort (not sure on raptor would have to check) & can’t really be pressed out cleanly but they’re also tucked in tight to the body & on a car like a vette that sees no salt/snow limited rain & sits indoors a lot there’s not a lot of reason for those bushings to degrade- they were/are still quite supple so I left em in place & instead media blasted the arms & gave em a black epoxy coating, pressed in new moog greaseable ball joints, replaced front/rear sway bars + bushing + end links, the inner/outer tie rods/toe links all 4 corners, the steering rack, the wheel bearings, the steering rack bushing (yep), the motor mounts (poly), swapped the thin stamped steel tunnel plate for a thick billet aluminum one etc etc etc You could go to similar lengths w/ a Raptor but it ain’t a collector car (unless you want it to be I guess) & isn’t old enough to have all the aftermarket part options I’m guessing (maybe wrong) I don’t think you need to tho- I think the front top hats/shock buckets or whatever you call em could be replaced, the shocks, the leafs, the coil springs, the tie rods, the swaybar bushings/links, & IF the a-arm bushings look ok & IF you can source correct sized ball joints doing that instead of replacing A-arms would save $$$$….but there are also better aftermarket control arms available too It just depends on how “nuts” you wanna get [/QUOTE]
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