GEN 1 2013 Shelby Raptor SVT Whipple'd - Need Advices on issues - Call for Help!

[ShelbySVT]

Hello Everyone, I recently bought a 2013 Shelby Raptor SVT with 83k Miles on it, as a newbie to the 6.2L i need some advices to my below concerns!

* Engine Overheating:
I have been noticing that whenever im driving for more than 20 minutes on constant speed between 60-85 miles the engine temp needle start so swing between normal temp 40% to 70%, back and forth, sometimes it stops doing that and some drives it doesnt stop swinging unless i let the raptor rest on full stop for 2-3 minutes. Im located in Kuwait and currently the heat is between 115 at night and 125 at day. I have replaced the thermostate to 170 SPD and checked for leaks and low fluid, didnt solve the issue. Also for whipple'd users is this natural SC behavior is hot climates? (Transmission on average is between 194-205) when the engine is overheating it reaches to 210-220 F.

Note that i have bought Full-race radiator and transmission cooler. hopefully it will fix it. anyone has this cooling setup kindly share your temp experience.

* Oil type:
Recently the dealership has changed my oil 5w50 and im concerned about it, yes Kuwait is hot but my F150 5.0 I used 5w30 aswell as my previous supercharged mustang 5.0. i had a mini debate with the head mechanic at the dealership and he insisted that 5w50 is correct and the reasoning being supercharged, is this correct?

 

[Whoops]

With the transmission cooler and the intercooler mounted in front of the radiator, it seems to me, there's not a lot of radiator left exposed to fresh air.

 

[FordTechOne]

An ambient temperature of 115-125 degrees F is extremely hot even for a stock truck. The aftermarket supercharger is adding a massive amount of heat that neither the engine nor the cooling system was ever designed to handle. The Supercharger essentially turns into one big heat pump at those temperatures; I’d be even more worried about your IATs than an engine coolant temperature of 220.

The larger radiator may help, but as stated above the S/C heat exchanger may be significantly blocking radiator airflow regardless.

 

[ShelbySVT]

An ambient temperature of 115-125 degrees F is extremely hot even for a stock truck. The aftermarket supercharger is adding a massive amount of heat that neither the engine nor the cooling system was ever designed to handle. The Supercharger essentially turns into one big heat pump at those temperatures; I’d be even more worried about your IATs than an engine coolant temperature of 220.

The larger radiator may help, but as stated above the S/C heat exchanger may be significantly blocking radiator airflow regardless.

First of all thanks for the reply, in terms of airflow blockage sadly i couldnt find anyone that tried to relocate their HE on the raptor thus im stuck with this. Why would i worry about IAT, care to explain the significance. Also i have been driving between 50-65 and noticed that the truck is keeping cool and not rising in temp. As it seems your correct the S/C might be putting heat strains on the engine while driving 70-85 miles.

 

[FordTechOne]

First of all thanks for the reply, in terms of airflow blockage sadly i couldnt find anyone that tried to relocate their HE on the raptor thus im stuck with this. Why would i worry about IAT, care to explain the significance. Also i have been driving between 50-65 and noticed that the truck is keeping cool and not rising in temp. As it seems your correct the S/C might be putting heat strains on the engine while driving 70-85 miles.

IAT2 is your manifold charge temperature after the supercharger. It’s an indication of how efficient the S/C and heat exchanger are and will vary with ambient temperature, load, and airflow across the cooler.

Excessive manifold charge temperatures results in detonation, which will melt down pistons/cylinder walls and snap connecting rods. It’s especially critical on aftermarket S/C kits because not only is the engine not designed for F/I in the first place, but the engine management may also not have the capability to retard timing and reduce boost when IAT2 exceeds a critical level.

 

[ShelbySVT]

IAT2 is your manifold charge temperature after the supercharger. It’s an indication of how efficient the S/C and heat exchanger are and will vary with ambient temperature, load, and airflow across the cooler.

Excessive manifold charge temperatures results in detonation, which will melt down pistons/cylinder walls and snap connecting rods. It’s especially critical on aftermarket S/C kits because not only is the engine not designed for F/I in the first place, but the engine management may also not have the capability to retard timing and reduce boost when IAT2 exceeds a critical level.

I guess so little i can do regarding our heat other than putting a gauge and observing.. getting the notion that this truck might be only winter suitable truck. Hopefully the Full-race radiator will put the engine cooling in a bit lower temps.

 

[EricM]

The Whipple is a twin screw. They run hot. Even when you aren't in boost and just cruising, the majority of the air has to go through the screws, where it gets compressed (heated), and then it's goes back to the top of the screws through the bypass valve (open when vac is present) and does it again.

What you really need is to figure out a way to run the belt driven clutch fan and shroud from a Super Duty 6.2L engine. It'll move 5X the air compared to the electric fans.

At some speed the electric fans turn off, that may be why it gets hot at 70-85 but not at 50-65. You can override that to force the fans to stay on at all times with some wiring. Find the ground wire that activates the fan relay and wire up a seperate switched ground wire to activate that relay. You can then activate the relay/fans manually via the switched ground.

Some claim the fans block the airflow at a certain speed, which is why they turn them off- I'm not sure I buy that. I think the engineers found it was no longer needed in their testing once they hit a certain speed, so they turned it off to get more MPGs. You are such an edge case though, keeping the fans on high at 85+ MPH might help you.

 

[ShelbySVT]

The Whipple is a twin screw. They run hot. Even when you aren't in boost and just cruising, the majority of the air has to go through the screws, where it gets compressed (heated), and then it's goes back to the top of the screws through the bypass valve (open when vac is present) and does it again.

What you really need is to figure out a way to run the belt driven clutch fan and shroud from a Super Duty 6.2L engine. It'll move 5X the air compared to the electric fans.

At some speed the electric fans turn off, that may be why it gets hot at 70-85 but not at 50-65. You can override that to force the fans to stay on at all times with some wiring. Find the ground wire that activates the fan relay and wire up a seperate switched ground wire to activate that relay. You can then activate the relay/fans manually via the switched ground.

Some claim the fans block the airflow at a certain speed, which is why they turn them off- I'm not sure I buy that. I think the engineers found it was no longer needed in their testing once they hit a certain speed, so they turned it off to get more MPGs. You are such an edge case though, keeping the fans on high at 85+ MPH might help you.

2nd and 3rd paragraph your referring to the radiator fans or supercharger cooler fans?

 

[EricM]

Engine radiator fans.

Does your heat exhanger have fans on the front side of it? That's optional on the Whipple kits.

 

[ShelbySVT]

Engine radiator fans.

Does your heat exhanger have fans on the front side of it? That's optional on the Whipple kits.

Yes 2 fans, funny they werent working.. which i fixed but didnt solve the issue which actually makes me think theres nothing wrong with the truck other than a SC + hottest country in the world combo. I will check the radiator fan as there is a famous shop here that tunes them to work on higher capacity.