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It is very capable in stock form. But most people who are going to go offroad with the this truck leave them stock for very long. Upgraded larger shocks make a pretty large difference in capability and handling. The Fox shocks are extremely good for a multitude of reasons (internal bypass being...

I avoid mud like the plague so...none of the above?

Use a 50/50 mix of the VRT and spray it on the tires. It will make your tire dressing application go much quicker and the VRT will last a bit longer as well.

You can use Adam's undercarriage coating. And be diligent about washing them if you go to the beach or come in contact with any salt.

Mjolnir has a pretty slick setup in his. It was $$$ but it's ultra nice and blows anything OEM out of the water.

If there truly are multiple different vendors for the exact same "kit" it sounds like anybody should be able to purchase the parts separately if we had the part numbers. I think the only trouble is getting the APIM programmed to your VIN?

Agreed. From what it looks like it should be everything you need. The site I've found before (https://www.4dtech.com/13-14-ford-f150-sync-3-upgrade-for-myford-touch/) claims plug and play and no soldering or anything. Still, $2k goes a long way for suspension or bumpers so until I'm done with...

There are more than a handful of people who are at the point where there are very little mods left unless they want to cut the truck in half and link it. Definitely not on my priority list, but the Sync 2 to Sync 3 conversion is on my list of things I would want done. Plan on keeping the truck...

I would call them up and check if you haven't already. I think a check-in once a month is more than OK and not being pushy at all.

It's race season. Fox and King are both backed up quite a bit. I think lead time on King is 10-12 weeks and Fox is probably similar. Just getting parts for rebuilds on the stock shocks has an insane lead time right now.

Not everybody is buying a new Raptor. While I'm sure that school will be great this school will serve as a great school for owners who never took advantage of Raptor Assault or who are 2nd or 3rd owners.

I rolled my truck at around 30-40mph with my iPad Pro 9.7 mounted on a RAM Mount to the windshield with no case and no screen protector. There isn't a scratch I can find on the screen or any noticeable dents/dings in the iPad casing either.

Just get it wrapped. Then you can do whatever color or pattern you want. If you like the carbon fiber look they have a carbon fiber wrap you could do. If you like the blue accent interior just get the pieces individually wrapped instead of purchasing direct from Ford.

How difficult or easy will it be to remove the light in the future if you ever needed to?

I found this one in this thread a few years ago and couldn't find it again. Did a reverse image search, found the original, and resized it to work.

Rogue can be setup either way - sprung over or under. Most, if not all, that I've seen have gone sprung under though. It's a fantastic package. For the OP, I don't really think you can go wrong with any of the options Mluis11 has mentioned.

RST16 is 16" travel. RST18 is 18" travel. Cantilever is 18" of travel also - just has the advantage of not using up bed space to get the travel. You can't go wrong with any option really. It will all boil down to your budget and how comfortable you are with cutting into your truck.

Anything can be DIY, but this would be a kit where an experienced installer/welder/fabricator would be needed. It isn't just a bolt on kit. Pretty sure SVC was planning on having tubes labeled to make it easier to put together, but it's still not an easy project to tackle.

Pretty sure that's the race tire that comes that way.

Another vote for LeadNAV. Yes, there are In App purchases, but it's the best app out there for pre-running or chase IMO. There are multiple race teams using LeadNAV either in the chase vehicles or in the actual race vehicles. It's extremely robust and worth what you have to pay for it.

This truck built by Texas Motorworx has been doing very well with the setup. Over 24" of rear travel.

It doesn't matter. The part number 20-2035 fits all of those vehicles. Look at the dimensions of the air filter and they are all the same. Just pick one you like and order.

If you stay N/A, there is an argument for staying with 1 3/4" primaries instead of the larger 1 7/8" primaries. Stainless Works only offers the 1 7/8" primaries, but they also have the most affordable headers on the market so most people have them. I have the Stainless Works headers in 1 7/8"...

Twin Screws still generate a good bit of heat. Do a wide open throttle run and you can see your charge air temps climb past 150° on a summer day. He may have used the wrong terminology, but his point still stands. Blowers, of all kinds, are very susceptible to heat soak. I've run all three -...

Yeah, but you know you want to hit those railroad tracks at 80mph. Def need 4.0's through the bed and long travel up front :crazy: