I apologize in advance for the length here but I've been pursuing this a while and think the background info is pertinent. I have a stock 18 with 52K miles and pretty limited off-road use (maybe 200 total miles). Before everyone recommends tire pressure, I'm running 34/32 and have not noticed a...
Thanks for all of the responses and Nick's suggestion looks like a good one.
Related question - If I were to attach a kayak rack to these crossbeams, which has its own straps and locking system, do I also need to use bow and stern lines? If so, where would they attach on a setup like this...
I go on family camping trips periodically, which normally fills most/all of the bed up to my Lomax bed cover. I'm now the owner of a kayak, which my family would like to bring on some of these trips. Using space in the bed isn't a reliable option for these trips.
What options do I have for...
I had this EXACT problem. In 4A it would try and drive itself off the road under acceleration. Check your tires. I had recently put on a new set of KO2s, and after careful inspection realized they installed 2 load range C (which is what I purchased) and 2 load range E, 1 each per side. The Es...
I have a front end clunk sound that is most noticeable when going over uneven pavement, cracks, manhole covers at 10-25mph with the windows down. It probably exists when going faster but by then the wind noise makes it hard.
I recently posted in this thread asking if there should be play in the...
Not to grave dig here, but can anyone verify whether there should be any play in the front axle shaft at the hub? I am chasing down a front end clunk as well. I've had my end links replaced previously, which did fix the issue, but now it's back (not sure if it's quite the same sound as last...
Thought I'd update this in case others locate the topic via search. I replaced my shocks with a rebuilt set through Shocks by Hammer, which resulted in immediate improvement and no more excessive bouncing or jarring at speeds.
I believe I initially paid about $1600 for exchange which included...
Thanks for all the feedback and perspectives. It sounds like it would be a good idea to get them rebuilt. Any suggestions about having the rebuilt shocks installed (I won't be doing this myself), such as dealership, an off-road shop, etc? Any idea what a reasonable cost is?
I have a 2018 Screw, stock, with 45K miles. Its my daily driver and has maybe 150 miles of off-road use, although I purchased it used and can't speak to the first 18K of life. Tires are measured at 34/32 PSI (TMPS reads 2 PSI higher, which appears to be normal from reading here), although this...
I am the OP and yes, I eventually figured it out on my own after Ford gave it back to be saying it must be a tire balancing issue. Discount Tire put 2 load range C and 2 E on! They ended up replacing the entire set and gave me a credit towards a future purchase. And the funny thing is I checked...
I was investigating the source of an intermittent clunk and metallic rattling sound from the front end and discovered that the bolt that connects a skid plate to the frame just behind front wheels is loose. This is the bolt in the very middle of the picture, as seen from the driver's side...
Thanks for the input.
The dealership called back to clarify their comments and ask some questions. A year ago I brought it in for a front end 'clunk' that they determined to be the end links. I had thought I noticed this occurring again recently, which I told them when dropping it off (this was...
Sorry to grave dig here, but I'm still experiencing a squeaky rear end. I have an 18 SCrew with 35,000 miles on it, fully stock.
Spraying the rear suspension components with water quieted things down for only a day or two. Since then I've tried spraying everything down a number of times...
Mine started making this exact noise from the rear at some point in the month after taking it off-roading that included a few mud puddles. At first I barely noticed it but it steadily got worse, to the point where you could hear every little flex of the suspension in the cab with the windows...
I have the Lomax and like it. Functions as intended and easy to remove when needed. I liked it over some of other options because it doesn't use drain tubes, which I didn't want to have to install or worry about getting clogged. Mine is definitely not waterproof, but is highly water resistant...
Mine didn't do it nearly this much (or maybe you were on a rough road), but my sway bar end links were deemed 'bad' and replaced under warranty. I was experiencing abnormally loud clunks from the front when going over sharp yet very minor cracks, manhole covers, etc.
I bought my 2018 lightly used just over a year ago during the brief dip in prices at the beginning of Covid. Because of that, I scored a pretty good deal compared to current prices. From what I've seen about the Gen 3 the improvements aren't worth me dropping additional coin and I expect to have...
Personally, if I didn't need it for towing or payload I would never ever consider a Tremor over a Raptor, even given the other things you mentioned. However, I have never driven one and am not the target market in the least.
For reference, I paid something like $160 for just the front two windows using the top product the shop offered. It would have been $40 cheaper for the lower level product with less IR rejection.
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