I think there may be a lot of cheaper options out there these days, but I've never had any issues with my OBDLink EX. https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/?ref=forscan
The way I understood it was that the Ford PCM targets load. It will only use whatever boost is needed to get to that load. So it may not always need max psi.
If you have the documentation from discount tire that states the tire cannot be balanced, share it with the sales / service manager at the dealership. They should be able to take care of you.
I remember back in my Evo days, you could actually remove the sticker. It was a pita and took some time, but looked great once done. I honestly don't pay much attention to them these days.
I'd think it's more likely to be the condensate drain issue. I know supposedly not all F150's have the issue, but obviously you got something going on. You stated you haven't used AC, but that carpet padding holds water. It's almost impossible to dry out without removing it at least partially.
I know the original post is old, but did the dealer really mix R1234YF with R134A? That just doesn't make any sense. The cost of R1234YF alone is much higher. And when we're talking ounces, it just would've been easier to evacuate and recharge completely.
I used the 594's on my stock Raptor. That's what the old plugs superseded to according to the research I did. And 133 in-lbs is straight from the service manual.
I think the B injectors are the port injectors, not direct. It could be the injector or the wiring. I would maybe start by finding a wiring diagram and measure resistance on accessible harnesses.
Unfortunately that truck is never going to be the same truck that rolled off the assembly line. Some might be okay with that, but for the money a gen 3 commands, I would not be. No matter how good the people are doing the repairs, they're still under time constraints. You waited this long...
Just wanted to add that my thermostat failed after getting phasers done. It wasn't obvious. Only real symptoms were the cooling fans would run balls to the wall. And CHT was higher than I remember. I threw in a thermostat myself. Truck is now back to normal. I boiled the old thermostat on...
After having done this, I do not believe the foams I listed could be used on the cooled seat version. They are only for 800A / 801A. The cooled version must be a different part number.
A little trick I learned is to setup an account on Fordparts.com. Add your own Raptor vin. You can search...
I've heard it as well on mine. I swear it comes from the middle of the truck. Not the engine bay. I just figured it was normal. Just a pure guess, I thought it may have something to do with the evap system.
That's a lot of light for Aux switch 5. If I'm not mistaken, they are only 5-10 amp. Did you check the fuses? I would wire them to 1 or 2 or like the guy above me said, use a relay.
Ok, so I didn't realize the truck still ran and everything. PCM is probably okay. That actually makes it easy to do yourself though. Or just take it to the dealer. Make sure you let the dealer know about that service bulletin though. When using IDS, the software won't recognize an...
Hmm, it does sound like it may be bad if you can't flash it at all. Actually, I just realized you have a gen1? You may be okay with the Pats part if you have both sets of keys. But I'm not sure about the software part then. I know some of the software is only for 18+.
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