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Soooooo.. you can actually just open up the gauge and move the needle. I've had to do this with both my tach and my fuel gauge. Beware of ever doing a gauge sweep though... mine will "decalibrate". I don't know what's actually wrong, but it has been fine for years, so I'm not motivated to...

So there should be one more for running lights. Process of elimination works here though! I'm a super big fan of the black wire being a hot wire... Go go engineers!

^ This. It isn't bad, there are only a few wires. At the time Recon had totally incorrect instructions - which is worse than no instructions. Maybe they have corrected that by now, but I don't trust them. Multi-meter only takes a couple minutes. Test light would work too.

Swap out the BCM.

I did, see my post right above yours.

Is your code not printed on the BCM as shown in post #6 above?

That's the BCM, and it does house the code. I had to get a new BCM, and it came with a new card/code.

That's what I have. You can't switch tunes on the fly. You have to re-flash. The switch doesn't change tunes.

5-Star usually uses an SCT tuner I think. Is that what you have? https://5startuning.com/product-category/2010-2014-f150raptor-6-2l/2010-2014-f150raptor-6-2l-tuners-programmers/

As far as I know, the Raptor doesn't support on the fly tune switching like some diesels. I'm not thinking tune. What kind of tuner was in the glove box? Maybe the switch is for something that has been removed? Gotta start tracing.

For those interested, I have resolved my problem. It turns out (there is another post about this too) that when you replace your rear camera you also have to do magical computer calibration crap for it to entirely work correctly. It WILL turn on without this, however the zoom won't work...

Spoke too soon. Can't find the old camera. Maybe I chucked it. Damnit. I also noticed that while my rear camera works fine, the zoom feature does not. I can hit zoom, it takes me to the zoom options, but if I click any of them nothing happens. Does this also sound like a symptom of the...

So, I still have my old camera that had issues. In theory it should still "work" since I haven't done the above? Would it be a good troubleshooting step to throw the crappy one back in and see if the front works?

Do you happen to have the details on this configuration? My front camera doesn't work either. I did replace my rear camera some time ago, and it's possible that's when I my front camera stopped working - but I'm really not sure.

Have you found a part number for this switching module? Is it in the cab/dash or engine compartment?

Well, they did have to do programming magic, but my $100 replacement amp is now working fine. However, now my tach is way off... again. FML. I don't believe the two are directly related. I think the tach somehow loses its zero when power is getting connected/disconnected. Just a theory, I...

Yeah, the shop has whatever programming magic is required. Dealer programming quote was $215 (1 hour). Shop is saying 2 hours, but they charge half what the dealer does, so it's a wash. The truck is already over at the shop, so probably just have them do it. Seems like my hands are pretty...

Do you know what that entails? Is it Forscan? Some other magical programming? Is it just going to do nothing before that is done (after it's installed)? Thank you for the information.

New they're like $750 - at least through the shop where we're fixing other stupid stuff. Since we're fixing other stupid stuff, they can throw the amp in for me basically for free (unless programming is required), and they are fine throwing in a used amp. Specifically we're replacing the...

I priced out an aftermarket one earlier today and it was pretty expensive. Honestly, I'm fine getting back to status quo - I found a used amp for $110 shipped. Thinking that's the direction I will go. The rest of the electrical disaster is bleeding me dry, I just want the sound to work again...

Well, there were a bunch of other things that got fried - the amp being one of those. However in terms of stereo, everything works, there is just no sound. No music, no beeps, nothing, but everything else works - Nav, Sync, etc.

Title says it all. Apparently my amp cooked. My audio system is bone stock, and I'm fine with keeping it that way. If I find a used amp, do I need to do any programming or will it just work? I'm guessing the amp lives under the rear passenger seat in that black plastic box with that sub...

Sounds like the pump to me. I've gone through two of them in my 2012. I'm going to assume the fluid is properly filled?

.030" Just did mine. Wider gap like yours is going to cause problems.