i thought the same thing, and ive had good luck over the years, but since disconnecting the connector, i havent once waited, or thought i hope the hubs are fully engaged before applying power in 4WD..
ive heard plenty of pops and bangs over the years, and ive had to replace 1 or 2 also... now...
Someone has a set taking up space in their garage Im sure.. lets help each other out.
Eibachs might work too, but im not paying $350 for a new set..
i guess i scrapped my stock ones but its time to rebuild my race series coilovers and i want to stick stock coilovers on in the mean time..
probably need the wastegate spring mod..
mine was quite bad since i got it at 9K miles but i did this last year or something and its been nice and quiet ever since..
a very tinny rattle noise that suddenly disapears after a min or two of warmup...
That was going to be my next move but honestly I can not tell a difference from disengaged so I'm going to leave them or possibly put the deletes in..
I mean think of all the fwd cars that use CV axles all the time.. except for tree branches or cactus, there really shouldn't be a reason for...
i have been for a little while.. i was getting some random slight CV engagement on extended highway driving so i unplugged the solonoid and they are engaged full time now.. we'll see but Id think keeping them exercised would be fine.. time will tell because i tried replacing the check valve and...
buy once, cry once
i have a TYT TH9800, which has served me pretty well over 5 years..
been thru several mics, but its very frustrating to get out on the trails to find out the radio isnt working properly and even worse if something is happening and you need to tell the people behind to STOP...
chains wont work unless you have aftermarket wheels with more backspace..tire will be too close to upper control arm.
that being said, i have no experience with tire chains, but thats the reason they say not to run them..
Amazon..
https://a.co/d/22USQ7U
i have 16 or 18 on here. they arent the brightest ones but the price is right, and they have held up for a couple years now. maybe had to replace 1..
i have the ones pictured for 4 or 8.. the price seems to go down with the 12 or 20pack, so i cant speak for...
its in bro. thats what its supposed to look like.
the orange sealant is the edge of the seal.. the intermediate shaft on teh passenger side. thats what it looks like..
the oring seals the axle shaft end from getting dirt in there..
everthing is fine.. whats the problem? oil leak? the seal...
I ran snoball pretty much all 8 years ive attended at 35psi on Toyo M/Ts 35x17-12.5
20s are fine, we arent really using the sidewall to do much. theres no rock crawing, you'll be ok..
the flat strap isnt really needed if you have a kinetic rope, except for extending a winch line, or towing...
pretty sure if you crash in an Off Road Vehicle area, that is also a state park that doesnt require license plates, you arent covered anyhow..
not sure, never crashed.. are you fun at parties?
Last weekend for silver lake...
i need a secondary bypass or some serious FRS 3.0 Live valve revalve up front..
the rear is killing it, but the front is way too soft and bouncy...
if you can pull the codes, im guessing there is a wastegate actuator fault which will put it in wrench mode and no boost..
i see you reset the computer now after i had already typed this, but i guess itll be fine until it isnt again...
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