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the other trick is using a spark plug socket to put the top spark plugs in (and out). But you can't push the plug in to much, or when you got to pull the socket off the plug, it will put out of the extension rather than releasing the plug. so just put the plug about halfway on the plug like this...

Ok. i was going to do a separate thread, but there is a ton of good info on this one. But i have a couple of additions to help you guys out. REMOVE THE INNER FENDER LINERS They come out pretty easy. pull the wire keepers. pop off the flares, then undo the bolts underneath. That and a couple...

In my quest to do a whole bunch of maint now that i'm about at the 100k miles mark, changing out the rear differential fluid was on the list. And since I was pulling the cover, it was a good chance to upgrade the rear cover. I really like the look of the Ruffstuff cover, and its beafy as hell. I...

Then it was off to have it wrapped.

since i was blacking out the liners, i figured i would hit the front wheel wells as well. The area where i had beat back the seam years ago was showing, so first i painted it, then the undercoating. Then reinstalled the fender and liner.

I wanted it to be neat and not have a bunch of wires tied up, so i drilled the liners to mount the wire keepers like they were on the factory liners. kind a PITA, but not too bad. you can eyeball the spacing pretty easy after the first one. came out pretty good after i got all of that...

You can actually take off the fenders and have the liners sitting there, so here is some pics like that

Once you get done with the fitting, the self tapping screw will be your friend. I put two in the front and another 4 along the frame. Kinda line it up and push it up as far as it will go and secure it with the screws this is the passengers side, front And thats about what they look...

here is what i had to cut of of the liners to get them to fit. with the cut off wheel, this was super easy oh, before i get to far into this. You will need to cut and beat back the seam in the wheel well. I had already done some of that when i put the 37's on years ago, but needed to do a...

Ok, finally getting around to writing this post. It was recommended to me to do this combo by more than one person, and it worked out great. I had done a bunch of searches but came up with nothing on what the liners looked like or how they would attach to the truck. In the end, it was pretty...

As long as the frame and attachment points are ok, everything else is pretty easy to swap out if you have some skill and tools. You could easily by some used rebuilt rear shock for less than the $700. And that’s a pair. Def upgrade or the very least get a pair of springs. I wouldn’t run one...

AMSOIL. Join the members club or whatever they call it. Best stuff out there and the price is good too.

where did you get the valve covers? looks good

just ordered one myself. i wish they would put a drain plug in it. i asked them to, but they said no. I also like the raw look, so i got some rustolium clear to help it not to rust. got the lube locker gasket and some amsoil fluid. plus the new 12 point bolts. should look good.

I had stock wheels and suspension on my 12 on mid perch with 37s. no issue. did have a little rub on the inner fender liner. nothing a pair of snips cant fix.

Would like to know as well. Wish the had some better pics and info on their website. Especially since they are 15% off right now

Any where else to go in the Jax area?

Well. Apparently not. Just called them to buy one and asked if they would build one with a drain plug. They said no. Too much shop time. I told them I’d pay for it but they weren’t interested. So much for that

I was going to call them and ask about that. Honestly they need to make a DP std. that’s one f the main reasons to go to an aftermarket diff cover

True. But only two reviews. Not that worried about those. At least they said the welds look good Amazon doesn’t have the 9.75” available either

Yeah. The ruffstuff design does not have the “faults” mentioned by banks. Not sure if it really adds any capacity either. But it’s def thicker and stronger. And looks badass as well

It’s not really about the extra capacity. Looks stronger. And I’m a sucker for a nice custom welded fabricated look! Same reason I put fabricated valve covers on the race car! But I do like the rear skid. Might need to do both!

I think this is the ticket for sure. seems like a good price compared to whats out there as well. throw some cerakote on there, and it will be pretty for sure

In my recent run of maintenance, my next project will be changing out my rear diff fluid Since I like to do upgrades while doing maintenance, I figured I would put a new rear diff cover on. this one from Ruff Stuff looks pretty good. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2486-A.html

I would be worried about dropping it, then adding that much weight in the rear. seems like a bad combo to gain an inch lower. I cant imagine that one inch lower is going to be that much easier to load or unload a motorcycle. but as others have said, it will start adversely effecting the ride...