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Not sure if you're willing to go as far as Reno on a Tahoe trip but I am getting some work done at Silver State Offroad at the end of the month (https://silverstateoff-road.com/) they were recommended to me by some locals here in Tahoe and in the facebook groups as well. Can't really recommend...

Right below the screen on the dash, the gear select indicator lights. "P" should be lit up orange like the picture below. If it stays white like the rest of the lights in this pic when in park the switch is bad.

Glad I was able to help. For other people wondering if you have this issue: the P on the dash cluster should be lit up orange if functioning correctly. If all the lights are white and the shifter is in park then you need to replace the plunger switch.

Does the "P" for park light up on the dash? It's common in 12th gen f150s to have the parking plunger sensor in the shifter go bad and the truck won't think it's in park which leaves the dash lights on draining the battery.

https://infinityoverland.com/shop/ols/products/2010-2014-ford-raptor-front-bumpstop-kit

It's not a special edition it just has SE wheels. SE was only black and ruby red trucks.

Trying cleaning all the mating surfaces and then rub a very thin layer of silicone grease or similar on the rubber to help it seal tightly.

I had 80k on my truck and one broke. It can happen at any time and if it does it can be curtains for the engine if the valve drops into the cylinder.

The next best option to stock IMO is the Icon UCA with the Delta Joint. It's better sealed, relatively easy to rebuild and you can order the rebuild kit from Icon.

Larger transmission cooler, upgrade valve springs.

Xact contour, they're made of a more heavy rubber, fit perfect and don't curl up like the hard plastic ones. Had them in my gen 1 for 6 years and 4 montana winters. No dirt ever gets in the carpets.

Those rockers and cab corners are trashed. Expect to pay a shop $4-5000 to fix it correctly. The whole inner and outer rocker will need to be cut out and replaced and the bed will need to be removed to access that area. Check your third brake light it's probably leaking and causing the rust damage.

-18 and 37s will rub like crazy, borderline undrivable. stock offset is +35

Getting a bedside if that one is unrepairable is going to be a problem.

OEM offset is +34mm so these stick out about an inch over stock.

The tread pattern is the same across all three tires and price difference is negligible so I want to get the lightest version I can if there's no material difference. I chose these specifically because they have worked well for Montana winter driving. My current set of wildpeaks weighs 75.4...

Yeah I was thinking the same thing, didn't make much sense so it might be switched around.

I need new tires before winter, I currently have Falken Wildpeak At3w's and would like to get them again. Reason for replacing is they are 5 years old and starting to get pretty hard and less grippy in the snow and rain. There used to only be two sizes, the 35x12.5x17 and the 315/70/17 but now...

The station in Gardnerville, NV where I get ethanol-free 91 let me pump $173 the other day without cutting off.

They wont sell you just the muffler

Aftermarket

$12500 at Prime ford in Saco, Maine in 2021. F250 Long block directly from ford, swapped the cam and had to buy a new intake since it had a procharger on it before. Truck also had longtubes so that added some time to the labor.

I found a used one off a wrecked truck for $525. Check car-part.com and ebay

Any pics of the 12 spokes on a gen 1? I like the look and the weight. I'm right by you in Tahoe as well

where in california are you located? I'm in Tahoe, interested in the shocks possibly