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Once I finally got the boost leaks stopped, I had no regrets. That said, it was a process and required some iteration. Truck feels faster to me anyway, and it looks good. I’ve got the Full Race radiator in my garage ready to install in case I have any issues with running hot. That said, I’m in...

I got the cold side pipe to stop moving on the throttle body after I used some sand paper. That said, I continue to blow the vapor hose off of the cold-side pipe. I'll try sand paper and Aqua Net. If that doesn't work, I'm going to the epoxy.

I put these exact brakes on mine. Stops soooo much better now

That is very helpful.

It is the silicone coupler sliding on the throttle body. It happens when I go WOT. Not sure if it is the pressure or the angle when the engine torques over. I have considered trying belt dressing. Not sure if that might help.

I installed the Full Race intercooler. Looks great and functions great. That said, I continue to have an issue with the silicone coupler not staying snug on the throttle body. When I get into it, the coupler slips back and leaves a quarter of an inch between the back of the throttle body flange...

Re: AMS. Someone was complaining that one of the connections to the driver’s side pipe was stressed and eventually broke.

Let me know if still interested in the CRPs. I just ordered the Full Race manifolds with black ceramic coating. Decided if I was going to do surgery on a truck with 24k miles, I had better do it right…

Any post with MatLab charts deserves a Like

Considering one of these. Any recent experiences good, bad, or ugly?

That is my guess, but it would be good to see some data substantiating it. It feels like about as far as you want to push a stock block.

Did you do any runs on 93 octane?

Seems like a reason to wait. Curious if the fitament is any better on the 19-20 models than AMS.

Any feedback on these? Trying to decide whether I wait for these or go with AMS.

It is typical to pull back a bit, but yours seems to be pulling back more than mine. Seems like I typically lose 2 lbs.

I love it, but the sheer volume would get me in trouble. I am considered pulling the trigger and welding in two Vibrant bottle resonators into the tail pipes to try to control the volume. Ford did something similar with the Raptor R.

I would remove the tune until you back to the land of 93 octane. High altitude and low octane are not a good mix. This guy had a similar issue. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a30085091/these-guys-just-drove-an-e63-amg-across-america-in-a-record-27-hours-25-minutes/

It is no different than any other turbocharged engine where people push boost and timing to get more power. 4.0L bi turbo AMG engines are just as hard on plugs. There is nothing inherently “wrong” with the ecoboost platform. Honestly, it is pretty amazing that a mass produced engine that doesn’t...

It looks like they plan to ship with the stock manifold studs. Wondering why they wouldn’t ship with the ARP stainless ones? Do the 2nd gen manifold studs not corrode like the first gen? I just don’t understand why you would install $1k stainless manifolds with studs that will corrode and be a...

These are nice… I wish I didn’t already have the CRPs sitting in my garage ready to be installed. https://www.full-race.com/formline-gen2-f150-turbo-manifolds

Congrats, are you close to Dorset/Manchester?

Has anyone used the ARP stainless studs to install their manifolds rather than the OEM ones? I notice that the CRP manifolds are shipped with the OEM studs. Any reason not to use the stainless ones? https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/400-8014/10002/-1

I believe so

Could have been the plug coming apart that damaged the piston?