If you want all of them on one switch then you’ll need to wire in a relay rated at the total amperage of all the lights. Then you can use a 5 amp up fitter to act as the signal to turn on the relay. There is no reason to use 3 switches for a pocket kit if you do it right and don’t rush.
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Another method I read was to wire into the fog pocket lights, if you have them, then you don’t have to waste a whole switch for just some backlighting.
The backlight would come on when you turn on your fogs and you could still run it all on the street.
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I would suggest that if you tap the marker use it as a signal to a solid state relay only. Apparently there is a chance to throw codes on the BCM and brick it after a while if you are pulling power directly.
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FordTechOne slightly off topic question. Do the clearance lights on the fender flares operate this way as well (BCM)?
I tapped the passenger one to switch a relay for my LP6 backlighting. No problems so far but after reading this I’m a little worried.
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Ultimately you can’t determine how much it will stick out if you’re only talking offset. Wheel width is a consideration as well. 8.5, 10.5, etc
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I just never understood the desire to upgrade your truck to a Raptor and then make it look like your old truck. [emoji2371]
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You have to use standard metrics when using that equation. Force in Newton’s = mass in kg times acceleration in meters per second squared (not velocity).
From what I get is that from zero to 20mph in 2.6 seconds is an acceleration of 12.268 ft/s/s. 7000# truck means the force in pounds applied...
Any minus offset will stick out as zero sits flush with fender flare. Even at zero you run the risk of eating your fenders with the tire so -24 you will lose the ability to actually use the truck how it’s designed. If it’s a mall crawler then you would be fine. That’s 2 1/4 inch difference from...
From what I read if you live in cold and or wet climates removing the shutters may be a bad idea. Condensation can form and cause lots of issues. I mean you’re taking a ton of air volume and compressing it which normally would make it hotter and therefore expand with the same amount of moisture...
Subbing since I’ve got a snow run coming up soon. I figured just selecting the slick mode in my 2017 and it should be ok but always you to learn more.
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After reading more of this thread I guess I need to go get mine replaced under extended warranty since it’s likely to return.
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Had a similar noise on my 2017 36,000 miles. Just recently replaced oem springs with Eibachs and deavers and now the noise is gone. I suspect something we took off, and subsequently out back on, got loose and we torqued it back up.
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Since my 2017 is sitting at 41,000 miles and had no cam phaser issues yet, it makes me happy to see success stories like this. Although I doubt my dealer would do the same unfortunately.
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I’ve been told that at worst the 37” KO2 will fit under the bed, deflated. Which means a need to have the ability to inflate would be needed.
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