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Thank you for the quick report back. Sounds like a worth while upgrade to squeeze a little extra out of the stock system. I’ll give it a shot when I get some time. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let us know and report back on your findings. I’m curious to see if it’s worth while to break out the forscan program once again. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the Cobb access port with the mob armor mount. Very solid. No complaints yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s my set up. I understand it won’t do much in terms of an actual blaze but it’s an inexpensive piece of mind just in case. I’ll have this one all the time and then an additional extinguisher in the back with my offroad gear. Majority of the stuff in my offroad gear box I hope I never have...

Yeah report back what you find. I’m curious to see. I always just assumed the placard/specified was the point at which the indicator light would come on if it fell below. If I get some time I might be able to check myself later this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You bring up a good point. A quick generic google search indicates that the tpms comes on at 75% of indicated placard psi. So in my case, placard/specified set at 25 psi multiplied by 0.75 would theoretically give me a light around 18-19 psi. A theory worth looking into to test. Either way I’m...

Yes sir. I tried to go lower than 25. Initially I wanted 22 psi as my set point but the specified value kept coming in with two dashes “- -“. 25 psi was the lowest I could see in the specified value block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my 2018, the lowest it would accept and show as “specified” is 25. You just convert code line to the hexadecimal equivalent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you tighten all of the leaf/shackle bolts while in the air or with it sitting on the ground? Sometimes the suspension can bind and hang up if you tighten everything while suspended. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve experienced a hard up/down shift from 4-5. The shift only gets worse when I put it into sport mode. Also have experienced the lazy 1-2-3 stutter where it feels lost/unsure which gear to be in. I’m thinking the transmission TSB might be worth having the dealer do as my truck was built...

I’ve got a Corsa Resonator delete pipe for sale if anyone wants it. Came off a SCAB and no longer have the extension pieces for the SCREW. I can ship or arrange for local pick up. Im located in the San Francisco Bay Area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re referring to the specified tire pressure in the cluster here is what you change. You can google what psi you want and convert it to hex. 25 psi is as low as mine would show. Anything lower and it would just come up as two dashes under “specified”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 2018 and mine is exactly like yours. On the inside of all windows except the drivers rear window. That one is etched on the outside.

This video might help clear up some confusion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the 2018 with the plastic pan. Just got my second leak fixed. 9k on the odometer. Minor inconvenience at most. My dealership does a pretty good job of taking care of it for me. Also gives me chance to get the service bulletins taken care of while its there. Don't get me wrong, I wish it...

Awesome. Yeah I used a clamp from the existing intake at that location. Thought it was weird it didn’t come with a new clamp but made it work so no big deal. Glad you got one on there though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks awesome man! You might want to double check that drivers side connection. There should be a clamp where I’ve circled below. Here’s a video that shows the complete install: And a picture of the intake with both clamps: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How’s the ride with the new geiser springs up front? Debating getting rid of my RPG adjustable collars and going this route. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Comes with the full set exactly as you’ve pictured. I found that kicking the lower control arm out as far as it would go provided the best camber with least amount of adjustment for the icon upper control arms. You may find it to be different for your truck. They aren’t that difficult to swap...

If you install the slot delete kit like I have shown you should be pretty close on camber and caster. I installed everything myself and did a rough toe adjustment in my garage. They didn’t touch camber or castor and just dialed in the toe to within spec. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the Foutz Motorsports slot delete with the Icon uppers. Very happy with that combination. The rogue kit is definitely top of line. Looks like a very well built piece for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are a few ways to go about it. As you can see in my photo above, I’m only running the icon spacer with the stock bump pad currently. That will hit directly on top of the axle when it bottoms out. No bump plate there. So to answer your question, you don’t have to have the bump plate but...

When you swap to the icon leafs, the stock bump block is discarded. The icon spacer for the bump pad connected to the frame is there to make up for this difference so that your leaf springs don’t come into contact with the frame. If you’re not going to a full hydraulic bump stop system, the...

If you get rid of the lock cylinder and rod assembly with the new passenger handle (love that clean look by the way), what purpose does the jimmy jammer plate serve? I'm not that familiar with their product but I was under the impression that their guard plate just protected the lock/rod...

No worries man. I thought I read it wrong as well [emoji23] glad it’s cleared up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk