If $60 is the going rate for Ford to deal with one of the center or tailgate bolts, I too would highly recommend going this route based on experience. lol
I had half of this information already saved in a note on my phone, and have had more bad experiences regarding these than I care to remember, so I figured I'd use all of that info to at least help others.
Tools & Torques:
If everything goes as planned (which it won’t) these are the only tools...
Yup I work in commercial construction management and we see it a lot there too. Even in controlled indoor environments it's prevalent. That's why there's new code requirements popping up such has having to put anti-corrosion tape on sprinkler piping (black steel) is in contact with electrical...
Correct. I forget sometimes because I don't even have a T50, just my T50+ with the rest of my torx bits. Raptor bed bolts are the only time I've ever needed a plus bit, and I've never needed a normal T50 for anything else lol
It is absolutely dissimilar metal corrosion, only the threading right near the nut corroded. In the original pic the factory galvanized bolt is the gray one. The grade 10.9 SS bolts with the head grinded off are aftermarket with the factory galvanized nuts seized on.
You’re prolly seeing the tapered threading on the factory bolt versus the full threading on the aftermarket. The factory bolts are self tapping because the nuts are not threaded.
So are the nuts, they are not fully welded on the clips so they are likely to break off upon removing. I had 1 of 4 break off the first time I removed them. This is the only issue you typically face with the factory hardware, but once you figure out how to get a hold of each nut, they still come...
Just a PSA. I replaced 4 bed bolts with aftermarket ones a year ago, replaced 2 with factory ones. Used anti-seize properly and here’s what they look like. I’ve been spending all day cutting, grinding, and meticulously trying to lift and lower the bed for access to get the aftermarket ones out...
I ordered White Knuckle’s this morning. I saw some older posts on here saying they didn’t make them specifically for Raptors yet but they do now! Awesome, well known brand with high quality, real sliders that bolt directly to the frame in 4 points. $2,400 including residential delivery for a...
Seen some older posts but nothing recent on this. What are the best frame mounted rock sliders out there? Today I got hit and run by what must’ve been some type of delivery/utility truck. Totally f’d the passenger rear door and sheared the step bolts right out of the aluminum on the rear so...
Anyone seen this combo?
I got ADV fenders I’ll be putting on soon for functionally since I run 37s and have jumped a few too many times on the factory fenders. I don’t plan to ever do bedsides though because the most I’ll go on suspension is 3.0 live valves. I’m curious if Anderson flares would...
ARB twin compressor, I have an auxiliary battery setup in the bed that it runs off. Yea if you’re going to keep it, go rhino rack for low profile and quick removal of the whole rack setup. This is the only pic I could find showing the rack removed but if you zoom in you can see the little feet...
He’s talking about the turbo silencers. They basically look like little fans in each of the inlet pipes from your air intake and they pull right out. That gives you more of the whine/air noise. That coupled with a larger aftermarket intake will achieve what you’re looking for.
Once you vent to...
Rhino Rack sounds like the route you want to go, it’s the only truly quickly removable option. Where just the feet are left attached to the rails. I had this setup with the aero bars but if I did it again I would get the “heavy duty” bars. They have the exact same load ratings but the heavy duty...
Lol I’m in Tampa, FL. It gets even hotter here. That’s specifically why I did NOT want aluminum. You have to go with either a poly or vinyl wrapped aluminum here if you want to touch it during the summer.
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