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If you arent running traction bars, you'll be fine. My issue is that now that I've gotten used to traction bars, not having them on the truck makes me sad. ( reinforced When I had to take them off when I Sheered a bracket being an idiot.

trust me dude. I'll take troubleshooting fuel pump issues on a gen1 all damn day over a couple hours trying to get all the damn computers to stop screaming when they flip out in the middle of nowhere.

have you changed the tire size in the computer? Check your ABS sensors to make sure one was not damaged in the romp. Its an odd collection of codes for sure. One of them is coming from the dash computer, which is located on the reverse side of the plastic kick panel below the glovebox...

Not sure if anyone has mentioned the VOLANT intake with the blue donaldson filter. it might not flow like some of the others, but it is hands down the best filter for your raptor if you seriously offroad it. Filter is dry and rated for 100K on road miles. I put a fresh filter on before...

Yeah, that's par for the course for me, usually. I can pretty much make it to san juanico from the border without having to stop for fuel in the tow beast, so I'm really only concerned with The checkpoints and the pass that is south of ensenada. Once I get to san quintin I feel pretty...

Have you come across any other "challenges" beyond the checkpoint near san ignacio?

wait, y'all clean your wheels? Like on purpose? :p

you sir, are a smarter man than I. I regret not just loading up and heading to baja when this all started. Now that I know that I'll be working remote until at least august 1, ( company policy/choice, not mandated), I'm considering renting a place and spending a month down there.

if you buy more than one, they ship for free. What a deal! Also- titanium is heavier than the carbon fiber equivalent. my supercar don't want none.

you could also realistically "fix" the problem with iwe eliminators. I highly doubt that you'd have any issue on a stock truck with them. Trucks that run a ton of preload tend to tear cv boots often, but if you're within factory spec on the angle of the front axleshafts, I don't think you'd...

You're going to need to make up 5 - 6" of additional width to match those fenders and bedsides. If you try to do that with merely wheel offset, spacers and tire width, the truck won't steer right. It won't track right ( it'll tramline constantly on any tire wider than 13.5") I get that a lot...

does 23K dirt miles win me any prizes? :anitoof:

what is the amperage draw from the lights? 10A can pretty much handle a pair of BD squadrons and not really much more. Are you using a relay? Wired directly to the upfitter switch? And singed wires? Is your wiring a consistent thickness or does it change?

just do the fronts. The front brakes do the majority of the stopping anyway. Stabbing the brakes sets your "line" because of the quick weight transfer and sudden grip. The front brakes are responsible for this. Do the fronts, add a legitimate rear locker, (or a spool) get you a hoon handle...

"you're running 40s, why do you want to run 4.56?" -- "Because my truck has plenty of horsepowers, I wanna go fast, I want to keep my top speed where it is, I'll break less stuff, and 4.56s are stronger than 5.13s by a lot." " how damn fast can you possibly go on 40 inch tires, bubba?" --"...

yes, they do squeek a little. I like it because they sound like race brakes. You may have to re-bed the pads if you're getting excessive squeaking. The pads can glaze if you're too ginger on them.

these brakes stop my truck on 40s FARRRR better than the stock brakes could stop the stock truck. well worth the coin!

My framerails are plated, there are two additional cross-members that were welded in, and the bed cage was extended then tied into the rear bumper.

The bumper started as an RPG bumper. Its now been cut, added to, welded on, etc etc. I'm running the very first GEN2 SVC mid-travel kit that they shipped out. ( at the time, the only other truck that had it is the gen2 that Ken Block now owns with the retro-reflective wrap on it.) It is...

i went through the same thing. Just take your time and check full bump eleventy billion times. The KR3s are 1.75" taller than the 39" KM3s, so at least you arent trying to stuff these in there. (yes, the "small" tires are 37" general grabber x3s. )

bummer. I wouldn't want the downgrade in effective lighting just for an easier mounting solution.

if you're kyle busch, can I be Robby Gordon? and if you have any "extra" motors that you aren't using right now, can I "borrow" one? :D

is it possible to just buy the brackets to use with the XLs that I already have? or is the light housing different as well?

if it is a worry, a single nut can be loosened and the actual bump can may be removed. The bump cans use the same style seals and materials as the shocks on your truck, So I wouldn't think that there would be any corrosion issues.

I'd classify it as such. If you decide to go with something adjustable, like the SVC option, You could also use them to make towing a bit more comfortable by simply adjusting the bumps downwards.