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I would change all the hoses as well when you do the new pump. The rubber sections start to lose integrity as they age and often fall apart from the inside out.

Another PNW’r! Nice truck. I think I remember seeing that one for sale recently online. The upside to not having the front locker is you won’t need to be as concerned about binding if you plan on doing suspension mods that increase the cv angles. I kinda wish my front diff was open.

Bought a matching wheel. What I thought were Method 702’s on my truck were actually Method 313’s. Those are the long discontinued lightweight versions of the now discontinued gloss titanium 702. I was perusing eBay and found a matching wheel, however the listing said it was 5 on 150. Somehow...

It sounds like the power steering pump is shot.

Dropped the transmission pan today and installed the B&M dipstick. Good news is that the trans fluid was still pretty red. If this is the first time it’s been changed, then I think it is in good shape (105k miles). However, there were some smallish metal shavings on the magnet in the pan...

Hello fellow PNW’r, If the wife is down with the Raptor, then I’d keep both. And when I say “I”, I mean “You”. #wiveslovehandmedowntrucks

Took the time to remove the poor quality “Raptor” decals from the bedsides. They were faded and kinda crookedy. Did a quick wash and sprayed some Prius owner tears on the paint for that Freedom Shine. Threw it in 4-Lo, locked the rear, and drove 20 feet onto my frozen grass for a few pics...

What can I say? I’m a rule follower…

To program the buttons on the keys you will need to have one in the ignition. 1. Open the driver’s door and press the unlock button. 2. Cycle the key on and off 8 times stopping in the on position on the 8th cycle. (Must be done withinin 10 seconds) 3. Immediately press any button on the key...

Right!?!? Pretty sure that is not even legal per DOT clearance and identification light requirements.

The old girl needs more time to limber up.

Oh, I get it. My last build was an ‘83 K10 with the 6.2 Litre diesel. Can you say “swollen glow plugs”? It’s all a give and take tho…

I love a good ol’ fashioned DIY build thread! Nice work. Love the truck. The fact that your license plates explain your sense of humor is even better. Brad

2010s: (of 10,437) #00067 -- Dungone -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4 #00102 -- Lonzo -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4, Luxury Pkg #00125 -- joekai -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4, #00232 -- Ducati -- Tuxedo Black -- 5.4L, Lux Pkg #00329 -- SVTCALI -- Blue Flame -- 5.4, Loaded #00682 -- aarons419 -- Molten Orange -- 5.4L...

During my 4 day work week, I am averaging 14.5 to 14.7 mpg over 240 miles. 72 of those miles are a 35mph country road and the rest highway. If I keep it below 70 mph it does very well. Traffic is moving on the way in, and I hit two spots of stop-and-go on the way home. In town driving will...

I have not stalled since pulling the a/c clutch fuse. Once I get the Lee Power Steering kit installed, I will replace the a/c clutch fuse and try to determine if the excessive drag was being created by the a/c compressor or power steering pump. I have also replaced all of the IWE hoses, as...

These guys have been killing me lately.

Oh hey! I know you from ExPo. I went with Ford parts. Found it on Amazon. Was ~$50.00 Ford BL3Z-7A785-B - Tube Vacuum

Replaced all of the vacuum lines from the IWE’s back to the solenoid on the cowl. The SVC Smurf bumper sure made that way easier than if the stock bumper was still in place.

Unfortunately, at this point I have no idea if this truck is running the factory tune or an aftermarket tune. It’s on my list of things to look into as I get through the maintenance checklist. Like I’ve said all along, the lack of DTC’s has been frustrating, but also maybe points to something...

Not sure that it is the clutch per se, but with the a/c clutch doing it’s thing, my truck will stall after the 3rd or 4th on/off cycle (at idle). I pulled the fuse so that I could keep the a/c compressor from cycling while I have the hvac set to defrost. Kinda need defrost around here this...

**Update** Haven’t had a stall since I pulled the a/c clutch fuse. I wanted to give it a couple days of driving in the conditions that would routinely result in a stall before I reported back. So, for now I have eliminated the stalling issue, but I will need to investigate the reason that...

@red_mr2 Pull the 10A a/c clutch fuse in the power distribution box under the hood. It was in position 30 on my truck. Drive around for a couple days, and let me know if it makes a difference. Brad

I ran out of time last night, so I didn’t get a chance to pull the belt and check the a/c clutch and pulley. It looks like there is a bunch of dirt and corrosion in there, so maybe the air gap is not sufficient, and it’s dragging. Or the pulley could be bad. I’ll check it when I get home from...

@FordTechOne Just compared the Raptor’s a/c clutch engagement to my ‘14 F150 5.0L. Night and day! The ‘14 is smooth and quiet and the Raptor is noisy and causes the tensioner to deflect when it kicks in. And the power steering fluid has a red metallic look to it. So I will address that...