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That's a cycling test I did with Methods/35's with the coilover removed. Another inch and a half uptravel is sketchy.

Have those Gen 1 Raptors with Gen 2 front suspensions (and increased uptravel) needed different fenders to keep the tires from crashing into them? I'm a long way from finishing mine, but it would be great to know if I need aftermarket glass with more bump to clear. I'm sticking with 35's, but...

Those KHC rear mounts require you to completely grind off the plates that surround the factory strut horn, (aka the thing that the tabs are welded to). That's a lot of work in a tight area. And although the G2 shocks are bigger than the G1, they are valved for a lighter truck, meanwhile you have...

Since mine has been apart for so long, I've got time to cycle it w/o the coil spring and check for clearance. I could see a big hit against that threaded collar might break loose the coil spring and end your day.

@2012SCSVT your new bucket is the Camburg version, yes? I ended up with the KHC version. It's stout enough, looks like I'll test cycle it first, then mig weld a fat bead on a few spots to reinforce the bolt-on hardware they provided as well as the frame connections. No doubt that combination...

This is from their website. I know that a G1 is heavier by a couple hundred lbs, so using their guidelines for lifting a lighter G2 front end should be similar. The current version (pictured) uses a different design, where it has 2 blue threaded rings and the spring collar is smooth, making...

I think these are the 1st Gen SVC Fox 3.0 CAS spacers. I assumed they would sit higher up and clearance wouldn't be an issue.

If you can get (or make) a U-shaped slide hammer-type tool it would be safer.

Not fair to post engine po rn without some audio, especially for those of us with a Raptor in pieces. We want to know what your neighbors have to hear every morning;)

I got a silver 2011 Gen 1 6.2 SCREW. In the past I've had an all black Toyota truck, VW Rabbit GTI, & Porsche 944. My verdict: black is not the right color for something you want to use and enjoy; it's the color for something you want to show off. It shows water marks and wax swirls when it's...

Fixed it for you.

It shouldn't change, as long as there's still vacuum in the reservoir and no leaks there. At idle, the engine is making lots of it.

The Keep it Dirty review indicates that a insulator is included, but the hpbuilt.shop photos show 2 different types. And the profile photo seems to show the part machined on the right side to "stop" the coil, which would mean it doesn't use an insulator. The last photo of the bottom of the hat...

Does SDI have any data on how much this would raise a Gen 1 with the Gen 2 KHC coil bucket conversion? Or the weight difference on the front between the Gen 1 & Gen 2? And why aren't there any pictures of the bottom of these to show how the coil seats against them? Do they not have a soft...

Wouldn't the shop that did the work have told you if the UCA's were loose? That's an easy upsell for them once the truck is apart.

What is the offset on those Methods?

You gotta remove the spark plug wires & coils to do it. Seems like replacing them as well wouldn't increase the labor cost.

When my ecoboost had it I diagnosed it by driving in circles; the P-side line was torn enough to leak (and cause the groaning sound), while turning left at full lock, but not while turning right. I just left it in 4wd until I was able to replace the line.

If you have a mityvac and some 1/8" tubing you can check each IWE by listening for the click and rotating the tire (with the motor off). When they fail it's usually due to a tear in the diaphragm, not the steel spring, the gear teeth, or the aluminum housing.

This is useful

The IWE check valve doesn't see different loads, nor does it stretch, or move up and down "at low speeds in neighborhoods" but the vacuum lines do. Check them out and be sure they aren't cracked, torn, or loose before they do REAL damage to your hubs.... and wallet.

Fordtechmakuloco posted this. A brilliant way to not have to evac the refrigerant on a cab removal: he carefully removed the ac compressor from the block, and was able to let it hang from the lines (attached to the cab), and didn't have to deal with recharging the AC system. Smart Dude!)...

If I can make a height-adjustable gantry then I can use it inside the garage at 9' high to lift the cab enough to clear the motor (and give access to everything), then lower it to 7' to clear the garage door and store it outside. Or to park outside, remove the bed, and sandblast & repaint the...

You can buy just the flexible end, (the portion that usually breaks), separately. This part number is for a 2015+ Expedition, but it's prolly the same. You just cut the damaged section off & plug in the new one. An easy roadside repair; without even removing a tire or crawling underneath...

Does anybody know the weight of a Gen 1 (steel) SCREW cab? I'm looking into options on removing either the cab or bed with a gantry-style lift like the photo, since a 2 post lift won't fit in my garage.