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Oh right, duh.

Are the rears the same as the fronts? I have a spare front OEM one. One of mine went out (one didn't), and I replaced both with some smoked ones.

Not at all. Quite the sneaky stalker skills you have. I might have considered it for the spare cats. Spendy buggers. I also have the fancy "green" ones though due to being supercharged, so there's that.

HA! Nice. I have the full true dual though. Pretty sure this no worky.

But my boot is fine right now. I recently replaced my axle. I'm just planning for the future.

So we can expect pics and a write up for the next time I have to fix mine? :D

Just had this exact thing happen on my 2012 as soon as I left the oil change place last Friday. The timing was too coincidental, but long story short it ended up being a wheel speed sensor (not anything they did) on my front driver's side hub. Luckily I had an old hub in the garage and swapped...

How did they "fix" it? Have you checked to make sure the valve stems are tight? They're pretty simple devices.

I like the hawse mount removable one - not hinged. That means I can totally remove it and not trash it (again) by bombing through sand dunes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IR051G/?tag=fordraptorforum-20 Otherwise there's this inexpensive one...

I had the same thoughts as you and went with the Roush. I've basically now pushed it to its limits after saying I wasn't going to. In hindsight I'd probably go with the larger displacement Whipple - though I'm happy with the Roush. I wound up having to do full headers after I cracked two...

My system of "I'm out of ideas, let's try this". I'm glad it worked for you. A phrase I use often is "It ain't stupid if it works." It's been a few years since I had to fix mine - so far so good.

Learn from old VCRs. Electrical tape. Other than that I don't know of a way on my 2012. I think the older ones without the fancy dash can because another item gets displayed there.

The upper ones? Like fuel, temp, etc? First I've heard of that. I had a tach issue where the needle pointed way below zero and maintained being way off as it climbed ( so something like 0 rpm was actually 1500 ). The computer itself was right when I used my tuner to check it. After trying a...

Oh, you just need to de-issuefy it. Or you could tell us what is going on. Which gauges? What are they doing?

Ah, that makes more sense. I can see it, but it ain't great. It's aftermarket for sure. Nice thing, it either A) Does something cool or B) Will be easy to rewire to do something cool. My guess is some sort of ambient lighting.

It isn't stock, but nevermind the button (push it, figure it out!) But what the hell kind of potato are you taking pictures with? Can we start a fundraiser to get you a phone on par with what most six year olds have?

Hookup a multimeter to your horn wires and see if you are getting voltage or not. Make sure wires are still connected, check fuse, etc. If you are getting power to your horn, it could be a bad horn or full of dirt or something.

That Schrader valve is likely the result of a rebuild. I had them added to my shocks when they were rebuilt - they are superior to the little rubber nitrogen plugs it comes with stock. You fill them with a no loss chuck instead of a pokey needle. If you are hearing clunking, it's probably...

I wouldn't turn on AC or defrost at all while you drive it. No sense letting it attempt to engage and do who knows what.

So the dash indicator turns on/off with the switch, but the locker itself remains engaged?

Does the dash indicator show it on when you purposely turn it on/pull the knob out?

You are SOOOOO overthinking this. This is a two hour problem/solution, and it has been days. There isn't anything to tear apart. There is a positive and negative connection, a couple bolts, and the belt. Go pick up a $10 multimeter, set it to DC voltage. Take a reading on the battery -...

Not from the alternator going out, no. The rodents? Always possible. An alternator crapping out can cause poor charging - killing (sometimes permanently) your battery. It can make noise and burning smells, cause belt issues, etc, depending on what is dying. Barring outside factors, I can't...

It's very likely the alternator. That'll do everything you have described - did to me, to a T (Battery light, smell, sound). I replaced it and all was well. Easy enough to do in your driveway. Not a hard alternator to find - make sure you get the Raptor higher output one versus a normal...

How heavy was the trailer itself? I can't see it being very heavy. My 7K flatbed weighs about 1,800 and I don't even notice it back there if I'm towing it empty. It tows fine empty (little bouncy) or with my 4,000 lbs jeep on it. It's sounding like some sort of trailer issue to me (versus...