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I'm not sure what Ford was thinking with the whole slotted lower mount thing. Damage mitigation I suppose. It's a pretty Mickey mouse setup.

If you guys have adjustable uppers, the number one thing you can do to promote happy raptor adventures is to slip a weld washer on either side of your lca bolt, and throw a little bead on them after it's been aligned. Before doing this I was losing my alignment every month, with and without...

Yes. Should still be able to align it no problem. If he runs out of adjustment, your spindle could be tweaked.

Looking good !

The 50/50 thing is just a starting point. You can tweak it from there. Every truck is going to be different depending on rear springs, dampers, and load carried. The goal is not to level the truck, or go " bro" nose high, but achieve a level of offroad performance.

Why doesn't it compute ? You're simply running a bunch more compression travel than droop. How does your truck look for height on the front end ? Ah never mind you had a pic on page one. 50/50 is the ideal. You've got the front cranked up to try to match the rear, which must have new +3...

Preload doesn't matter full droop is full droop. The shock should be the limit. Yup, any coil over really, 50/50 travel is a good starting point for most vehicles. The exception would be a very long travel setup where you run 65/35 droop/compression. ---------- Post added at 05:46 PM...

Correct, max cv angle at full droop. When you crank the coil over up, the less torque they can handle in 4wd before they break. Other downside to cranking it up too much is that your out of the bypasses ride zone, or close to the end of it. So you get a crap ride, and poor performance on chop...

You can go higher, just be aware that the higher you go, the less torque capacity the cv joint will have when you're in 4x4. The best way to set your ride height is to droop out the suspension all the way. Measure exposed shock shaft, cut that in half and it's your ride height measurement.

I like the welded tab mounts, bomb proof is what I need. Getting the lights lower would be much more aesthetically pleasing too. I realize kc's mount would probably work for most raptors on the road today.

Absolutely nothing, they're bling bling. Only useful if you need to weld up the lca slots and do adjustments up top to prevent a migrating alignment. 3.0's, deavers, and bump kit is what you want. Past that, go ahead and sell your first born and do it right.

Upsides to a sprung under is more available droop travel. Downsides is more pinion angle change, more axle wrap/hop, and less accurate location of the axle laterally under the truck. This is a result of using a longer overall spring, with more arch. Usually people don't notice this when...

Nutserts is good vs the old SoCal mounts that used sheet metal screws. I still don't like the way they swing way forward like that off of the roofline, that's a heck of a lever to put on Nutserts in sheet metal. You'd be fine for the usual street/occasional dirt use, but I worry as my raptor...

It's definitely better at high speed offroad without the sway bar. You can hit braking bumps and whatnot off axis without totally losing steering. You have to realize that their "high speed offroad" is actually high speed on a graded gravel road. I found the truck much more composed without...

I'm interested for sure, but durability on the mounts is a concern for me. If they just use sheet metal screws like all the other bar mounts, that's a show stopper.

Yup, faster rebound is more desirable. It allows the rear to follow terrain better, and be down where it needs to be to provide more compression travel. Blowing through all the travel and donkey kicking off the bump stops is prevented through compression tuning. Although it's not really...

Don't sweat it, you can't wreck anything. You will not find any settings to copy, they all vary depending on personal preference, terrain, and weight distribution. First step is to adjust the preload. Droop the suspension all the way out, measure the amount of shock shaft showing. Now adjust...

Set your preload adjusters for a ride height that gives 50/50 compression/droop travel.

With that reflector design, they'll be no better than bars for range.

I changed to a bar up front, four 7" led spots on the bumper, and two 7" hid on cowl mounts.

Led bars are great for fill up close, but don't come close to a hid spot for distance. What you need really depends on how fast you will be travelling.

On the axle control bumps, yes. There's a point where it is going to start to act like a linked truck with too much sway bar though, and that's why I'd like to get pinion angle controlled independently of the axle bumps.

Right on, thanks !

I believe that info is in the Ddl install thread. ---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ---------- More than I'm comfortable with, it's compressing the axle control shocks completely at full throttle. I'm changing oil and valving in them to see if it...

Technically it will be superior due to being a true four link and not dealing with ambiguous pinion angle change that the ddl has. But when we see the location of the upper link mounts at the axle, that will tell more. With my ddl kit I'm looking to add a third link as I'm seeing a lot of...