I also had my valve springs replaced with a PAC Racing spring and shim kit from @Cody Dawson. Nothing supercharger specific, but didn’t want to risk a broken spring and/or dropped valve which has happened on some stock motors.
I did headers and high flow GESI UHO cats as well, but that’s not...
Roush has no control over exactly what brand of octane booster you use or what concentration, so of course they won’t recommend it. They also don’t want you using below 91 octane either, so your alternative is to carry octane booster for the times you may need it or call a tow truck. Either way...
If you’re going to do or pay for labor to upgrade the oil pump gears, you might as well replace all the timing components (chains, guides, tensioners, and crank sprocket) as well while the front cover is off depending on how many miles you have. I did since I had my supercharger installed at...
@Bodhi ,
You’re good with the upgraded high flow cats from Stainless Works. All their cats are now made by GESI who also makes the Kooks Green Cats. The upgraded option is basically a GESI G-Sport UHO cat. I’m running these with ceramic coated Stainless Works 1-7/8” headers along with my JDM...
If I was going anywhere that was likely to not have at least 91 octane available, I’d carry some octane booster such as Boostane. It’s a lot more space and weight efficient to use the octane booster mixed with available 87 octane pump gas than carrying gallons of 91+ octane fuel with you...
Short of fuel trims, smoke testing is a very effective way to determine if there are any vacuum leaks in the evap system or anywhere in the intake path. That’s how my installer found that they’d torn an intake manifold o-ring during the install.
I’m running the JDM 700 kit with FRPP dual 65mm...
@MTF Glad you are able to keep this around. I’m still waiting for my order to show up from JDM/Whipple. Hopefully in the next week or two. Just did a transmission drain and refill and installed an Axle Exchange driveshaft in preparation. Otherwise, have a bunch of parts waiting on the shelf for...
I was wondering the same thing. Fordtechmakuloco who made the vid specializes in 5.4 3V repairs. Curious if there’s been a design change in the quick connects for the 6.2L coolant lines despite the visual similarity since the part numbers are different.
Plenty of Gen 1 Raptors (5.4L and 6.2L)...
@MTF Hate to see you have to sell this and hope you’re able to find equal or even more enjoyment through other outlets. You and Truckzor have been a wealth of information for those of us who have or will soon supercharge our Raptors. Also, thanks for being a first responder.
Just use a silver sharpie or other similar marker to mark the position of the hood brackets before you loosen anything. You may still need to make minor tweaks afterward, but the marks should help you get very close right off the bat.
I’ve heard varying claims regarding whether the shift issue is present for tuned trucks. The only way to 100% address the issue in your case would be to have Whipple, JDM, or whoever tuned your vehicle to rewrite the tune based on the updated ECU strategy the Ford is applying. I can confirm that...
@T3amfish I was able to order the seat heater part 9L3Z-14D696-C along with seat bottom foam 9L3Z-15632A23-A in November of last year from Tasca Parts. I’m guessing COVID-19 may be creating supply chain issues restricting availability of the part. I’d be surprised if the heating element was...
Below are the main components outside of miscellaneous stuff and labor. There are more recent options from Kenwood since I had this installed including those with up to 10” or so screens. You’ll also need an adapter to retain XM radio if that’s something you use. I opted not to have the adapter...
@B E N you probably need to update your Sync version. Should be able to download files from the Ford Owner site. Bluetooth Audio should resume if that was your last source and the display should also show artist and title info. I did eventually end up upgrading to a Kenwood Elite unit with...
The IWE can make some odd intermittent grinding and/or metallic sounds when it’s going it. See if the sound is any different with 4-High engaged vs. not. I chased a sound for a while and it was my IWE partially failed which made the hub lock/unlock partially and grind the teeth down.
Maybe try degreaser and then some sort of spray sealant or protectant like Beadmaker or any of the ceramic sprays to bring back some gloss. I’d guess the faded look is actually surface oxidation. If the actual powder coat has deteriorated, you might be better off having the part media blasted...
The alignment kits carried by SDHQ are made by SPC. You’ll likely want the HD version as the normal version is meant for lighter use while the HD version specifically mentions being designed for the Raptor or hard use on an F-150. I’m currently running the HD alignment cam kits and doubler...
@Guy I don’t think Peterb meant a “different” skid plate. I believe he was suggesting that you also get a skid plate for the rear “differential” if you don’t have one already.
Good idea with welding a bung for a drain plug onto an OEM pan. I dropped the front diff pan the first time I changed the gear oil, but it was a pain.
For my second change, I used a Mityvac 7201 fluid evacuator to suck the fluid out. Very easy and mess free. The fluid evacuator removed just...
Other than reserve capacity or cold cranking amps, the Odyssey or Diehard should perform and last about the same if they’re both AGM batteries. I have the Odyssey and have run it for maybe five years now with no issues.
Not much too it. Just clean the application surface and then do a final clean with isopropyl alcohol. Then, you can do a wet application where you spray water with a few drops of dish soap mixed in. Spray it on the application surface and the adhesive surface. That should allow you to move the...
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