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Bumper to bumper does not cover everything. Your only hope is they made a mistake or you show them you first complained about the problem when still under warranty.

I raise the middle finger at you taqueria ur a dumb d.I.c.k. Head. Probably give it too! Tell Ford CS you had a mis-diagnosis at this miles and time. They can see it. Problem fixed.

That’s what I am saying what was the mileage the very first time you took it to ANY dealer for the problem. In simplest terms, did you take the truck in for the clunk before the 25k mile limit? So 1511 miles ago? If so, they mis-diagnosed and you should be covered.

So they mis-diagnosed it, what was the mileage at that point?

Am I having a monument or does it look like the coil, below the one with the blue B tag, Is bigger or further from the shock? Probably just my old eyes. About where in the above picture did it break?

It looked like they were breaking about the same spot just past the retainer or seat. Im just not willing to void any change of Ford covering it by spending 7-800 on new springs. When we see rust, there is a good chance we could catch it before it completely fails.

Just go ahead and wave, your truck will be seen in the pride parade soon after.

Not Ford, do it yourself each time you wash it. Simple visual inspection.

September of 24.

I’ll let Ford pay for it. I think proper inspection will prevent an accident. I think it is broken for a period of time until it work hardens so bad it just snaps under normal load. The visual inspection should look for geometry differences. Is there a flat spot, distance between coils change etc….

So let’s all totally void our warranties. I’ll pass and let Ford figure out a solution.

We all need to inspect our springs for our own safety.

Great lubricant but not a seal conditioner.

I would try a seal conditioner. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZ2Z4EW/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Does this use the camera on the windshield at all? I am having a new one installed and Ford has to verify the calibration after the install.

Glad you’re having good success

I would send the FMIC back packed with gun powder and primers.

If it’s the 18 Raptor you can uninstall the tune and do about 15 key cycles over a few days and they never know. Don’t think that dirty trick works on a gen 3

Not going to try to explain heat transfer again.

8.5 amp light is fine on a 10 amp circuit. Just go with that.

Let’s add the 30 super carry caliber to the debate

Agree, but you have to oversize the radiator to make up for the increased air temp and possible loss of air flow and velocity

So if you like graphics you are insecure?? Or maybe they remove them because they are afraid they can’t compete with the studs that have R’s. Which would make them the insecure wimp.

Wrong, any engineer will tell you that increasing the air temp to the radiator wil reduce its effectiveness. Hence, outlet water temp will increase