Like FTO said, finding someone to turn them off is going be hard.
I only know of two persons with a Stage II Whipple and 1 7/8" LTs running cat-less.
Plus, they're both also running a mono blade 155mm TB
But this was done years ago. Both are not daily drivers!!!
If my memory is still correct,
1...
That's not why you use the rear O2 extender.
The PCM is looking for the amount of time it takes for the rear O2 to reach a specified temperature. (AKA. heated O2s)
If it takes too long to heat up or heats up to quickly the PCM will through a code,
whether the cats are damaged, clogged or blown...
@Bodhi
Once a cat breaks and starts to collapse, it can block the flow and seriously damage the engine,
especially when Supercharged!!!
You will need a revised Tune from Whipple to turn off the rear O2's, if you don't want to see the wrench light.
And best to do a data log, so you do not run...
I would check the connection down by the starter.
At least remove the big cable and clean it up, even if it looks good.
There are quite a few threads about corrosion down there.
Check the bolts that hold the starter.
There have been posts about the bolts coming loose.
It's a dual frame but in some areas, the frame is double walled and gusseted throughout the frame as well.
The little gussets you're mentioning were added later on and is only at rear where the frame bends over the front of the rear tire.
You can buy them and have them welded in or do it...
That's some serious rust rot and pure negligence.
I daily drove in NYC through salt, brine and sand for 12 years
and only have slight surface rust spots that I do need to wire brush and paint.
I fortunately had a garage warm enough to keep a garden hose running during the winter
and was able to...
Basically,
There are a couple of members that did not listen to Livernois's recommendations and requirements
and then went ahead and did their own thing.
And when it didn't work out, placed blame on Livernois.
SVC does not offer Tunes any longer, it is and was the best Tune for the Gen 1s
DO NOT use Lund!!! plus I believe he gave up on trying anyway, he never got it right to begin with.
JDM, Livernois and 5 Star in that order is your best bet.
It could be your IWE are losing too much vacuum with the throttle into the boost for that long of a time.
A video of the noise would be helpful.
And the SCT does data logging as well, I personally wouldn't use HP Tuners on a Supercharged Raptor.
The 2010 1/2, 6.2L did not come with the resonator.
It was added on 2011-2014 to help bring down the little drone at cruising speeds.
I don't experience any drone, but I have a Bedrug and a Pace Edwards electric bed cover.
So, nothing comes back to the cab from the exhaust tip.
FYI, the fuel pump does not run continuously, it starts and stops as needed, because there isn't a return line.
And while running it will cycle high and low pressure.
If you have someone turn the key to the on position and listen by the right rear tire you'll hear it run for a second or two on...
You need to monitor the short and long fuel trims both banks, this will tell you if an O-ring is not seated correctly.
If one was out of place, it would throw codes like too rich or too lean.
Plus, it would run right either.
The fuel pump will start running and pressurize the rails in a few seconds when you turn the key to on position.
Try waiting a few seconds in the on position before turning the key to start.
If that doesn't help, then it's time for a tune up or at least injector cleaning, MAF sensor cleaning...
Since @BSouders80 went with the JDM kit he already has the smaller twin 65mm TB and the smaller 47 lbs. injectors.
There shouldn't be any surging,
at least that's what everyone has stated when downsizing to the JDM requirements to run their Tune.
I do not have any surging with Whipple's Tune...
The 2010 didn't come from the factory with remote start.
But it is an option that can be ordered from the dealer and installed.
It's a Ford Factory alarm with remote start, I think I paid $500 with lifetime warranty.
It's supposed to honk once and the leds should light up.
Like mentioned before, there is a hood safety switch, I cut mine and bypassed the switch.
It's close to the over-flow tank.
Yup, it's a child safety thing, 2X lock and then start button.
For vehicles with push button start.
I still have the receipts, just not with me at the moment.
One accident involved two new passenger doors, front fender flare, mud flap, front bumper, front skid valance plate.
I think it was $8,000 or $9,000 for the repair.
The second one was very minor, a fender flare and mud flap and...
You mentioned the driveshaft, I need to apply a half a teaspoon of grease to the inside of my yoke!!!
I haven't done that in two years now!
This stuff is just great, it lasts almost two years, I've tried several expensive greases, nothing holds a candle to Dupont Heavy Equipment Grease with Teflon
I always used Simple Green and get great results, but it needs to be done every three to four months.
The heat gun idea seems legit as I always use the hottest water possible and straight Simple Geen when scrubbing the damn tires.
I've thought about buying a steam cleaner but that's nuts, not to...
Yup, Gen 1s cleanup nicely. Even after 12 years!
I just washed the last of NYC STANK off my truck today!
I'm having a hard time with not having stickers on the windshield and no front plate.
I'm going to take her off the market, she's loving her new home and I'm liking driving around here.
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